Feb
07

Pinot Noir Tasting for the “Young Sommeliers” Part Three

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Here is the final piece on the tasting we did today.

Pinot 11The next flight featured Pinot Noirs from the Old World.  The first, 2012 Jermann “Red Angel on the Moonlight”, is a very refined, more delicate red wine from Fiuli, Italy.  What made this wine perplexing at first, was the mere fact that Silvio Jermann made quite the reputation in the 80’s & 90’s with his game changing white wines.  He continued his crusade then producing very dramatic, intense proprietary white wines–“Vintage Tunina”, a Sauvignon Blanc driven blend & his much heralded “Where Dreams come from…..”, a powerful, lush, oak ladened Chardonnay based white.   So, in 1988, he releases these more delicate nuanced RED wines?  Still, the wine is enjoyable & has a real affinity for foods.  Hailing from Friuli & mainly neighboring Slovenia & its Brda marl soils, this 2009 Movia Pinot Nero is produced from 30 year old vines & aged up to 4 years in barrique.  The final wine of the trio was the 2011 Furst Spatburgunder “Hundsruck GG”.  Paul Furst in my humble opinion produces not only the very best Pinots out of Germany, but also can stand tall on the world class stage  His Hundsruck parcel is a mere 3 hectares in Burgstadt & red sandstone soils, which usually ripes Pinot 2 to 3 weeks later than Burgundy.  Of Pinot 12  his many Pinot bottlings, Hundsruck is his most powerful.  Again, please go to archives to check out a previous blog I wrote & paul Furst & his wines.  There is a lot to say!

The final flight of the tasting featured Pinot Noirs from the varietal’s “motherland”, Burgundy, France, where the soil is premium.  We tried to feature wines from distinctly different areas to better show a spectrum of possibilities, rather than a quartet of Cru wines trying to out show each other.  The 2013 Regis Bouvier Bourgogne “Montre Cuil” comes from a steep, sandy-ferruginous soil parcel outside of Dijon.  The parcel is 1.8 acres in size with 50 plus year old vines.  The grapes are fermented in concrete & aged for 10 months in 3 to 4 year old barrels.  We absolutely love the transparency & purity of this easy drinking, delightful, “country” style Pinot.  The next wine was the 2013 AP De Villaine Bourgogne Rouge “La Digoine” from the Chalonnaise region of southern Burgundy.  These are 35 to 45 year old vines, grown in clay-limestone soils, & the juice is fermented in wood, with 2/3’s stems & then aged in old oak for 10 to 12 months.  This is yet another terrific, pure, transparent Pinot, but done in a classy, much more highly refined style.  We then looked to remind tasters there is a big difference in wine profile between those from the Cote de Nuits & those from the Cote de Beaune.  In addition, we chose to show more classically styled renditions–the 2013 Robert Chevillon Nuits St Georges Premier Cru “Bousselots” & the 2013 Guillemot Corton Grand Cru “Le Rognet”.  Bousselots is roughly at 750 to 850 feet elevation, 10 to 15% grade of gravel, limestone & clay soils.  NO stems are included in the stainless steel fermentation & the wine is aged in barrel, 30% new.   This classy, highly vinous Premier Cru shows why Chevillon is the top dog in the Nuits St Georges appellation.  It has admittingly taken me a very long time to understand & truly appreciate the Pinot Noirs of Guillemot, which is quite a surprise to me considering I normally appreciate finesse, elegance, grace, balance & terroir, especially when done in a classic style.  Well, I certainly liked this bottling in 2011, 2012 & now this 2013.  These are 50 year old vines, grown in ferruginous oolite soils, fermented in wood & aged for 18 months in oak, 10% new.  Light in color & more delicately nuanced, this wine is worthy of ending an epic tasting like this!

Thank you to Warren Shon for hosting this tasting & thank you to all who came.

Categories : Wine

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