Oldies But Goodies 04-26-16


Jacques Selosse–what a treat to try yet another Selosse Champagne, having had 2 others in the past couple of weeks.  BB20 SelosseWhile the 2 earlier bottlings were not really my cup of tea because of too much oxidative character, this one was much more “fresher” & much easier to understand & appreciate for me.  There were so many nuances, complexities & breed to the core, with a rounder, more expansive palate, which reminded me more of an aged white Burgundy (without the bubbles) than Champagne.   Thumbs up!

Jobard Meursault Premier Cru “Genevrieres”–I have been very fortunate to have had this bottling in many different vintages on many different occasions.  It is without a doubt one of my favorite white Burgundy bottlings.  Having said that, this certainly makes me quite biased in this wine’s evaluation.  Yes, I am one of those who believe this particular wine BB21 00 JobardBB22 86 Jobardshould be Grand Cru. Because of Jobard’s unique, old style winemaking, however, most wine “experts” would not agree, as his wines are quite controversial & therefore grossly under appreciated.  To me, the wines in each case, exhibit Grand Cru pedigree.  The 2000, for instance, has a truly mesmerizing, glorious nose–intriguingly stony with all kinds of nuts & spices that just kept opening up with each additional whiff.  Furthermore, the wine was absolutely solid & gorgeous in the core, although I think the even-ness of finish changed to a somewhat coarse-ness after 2 hours & as the wine warmed up.   Still, I absolutely loved the wine’s perfume so much.  It certainly made having this wine quite a memorable experience.  The 1986, on the other hand, was amazing right out of the gates.  It really was the first time I had had a Jobard Meursault “Genevrieres” which was wide open, transparent & strutting its stuff.  (They normally are so tight fisted & therefore closed & take hours to truly open up).  In thinking about it further, how many 30 year old white Burgundies would even still be alive & kicking?  The nose was so glorious, compelling & captivating with all kinds of nuances, layers & breed.  On the palate, this 1986 flowed so evenly, seamlessly & was so refined & majestic.  Talk about having a wine at the perfect time of its life!  I was also amazed at how long this epiphany sustained itself after being open.  Yes, it did start to fade as time wore on, but was still an amazing experience.  Thank you Jamm & Erika for sharing!

1997 Robert Chevillon–we have been huge fans of the Robert Chevillon wines for a long time.  This estate remarkably owns parcels in 8 Premier Cru vineyards within the Nuits St Georges appellation.  The reds display such sublime purity, superb seamless-ness & balance.  On this night, our friend Brent brought two 1997 Premier Cru bottlings–BB26 97 ChaignotsBB27 97 CaillesLes Chaignots & Les Cailles.   As the importer notes, “Les Chaignots originates from old French, meaning “the place where the oaks grow”, & is located on the northern side of the appellation closer to Vosne Romanee with an eastern sun-exposure.  The vines average 60 years in age, grown at 260-280 meters in altitude, with a grade ranging from 8-20%.  The 1997 was so charming, gracious, graceful, classy & much rounder & seemingly lush than the Les Cailles.  In short, it was a really lovely wine & definitely Premier Cru in quality.  Les Cailles, on the other hand, “is derived from the word cailloux, or pebbles, not the common assumption that it is derived from the modern meaning, “quails””…….& is located on the southern of the appellation nearer to Premeaux-Prissey also with an eastern sun exposure.  The vines average 77 years in age, grown at 250-260 meters in altitude, with a grade between 7-8%.  The 1997 had much more obvious pedigree (& more ethereal/rock character) than the previous wine, which again supports the argument this vineyard should be elevated to Grand Cru quality, along with neighboring Les Vaucrains & Les St Georges vineyards.  Wow!!!!  Yes, I was really taken by this wine!  Very aristocratic without being pompous or any fanfare.  Just pure class, done with grace, wonderful texture, fine detail & great balance!  Thank you Brent for sharing!

Categories : Wine

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