Last night was one of our friend’s 50th birthday & as one would imagine there was a bevy of older wines opened in the celebration. Here are some of the highlights.
1999 Francois Jobard Meursault Premier Cru “Genevrieres”
We have been really fortunate to taste a whole slew of older Jobard wines in the past 18 months. They have, without a doubt, been quite the revelation as each have been a truly incredible experience …..that is if you like mature, old style white Burgundy. Eventhough this was a 1999, it seemed like a baby–still very youthful in its core, surprisingly tight fisted & unyielding. It really was a glorious, aged Chardonnay nonetheless, which just kept opening up with additional air time.
Michel Colin has been one of our favorite Chardonnay producers in the world for quite some time…..& this wine clearly reminded me why. It too was fabulous,….much more open & mature than the Jobard….still though showcasing incredible complexity, finesse, pedigree & a truly masterful winemaking touch
2004 Colin-Deleger Chevalier Montrachet
Michel is semi-retired now & is only producing 4 single vineyard wines with the crown jewel being this Chevalier Montrachet parcel. To me Chevalier Montrachet translates into wines of more finesse & refinement than most of the other white Grand Crus. AND, since Michel Colin’s style to me is much more about purity, transparency, finesse, class & style, this combination is a match made in heaven.
2002 Coche Dury Volnay Premier Cru
Coche Dury is world renown for producing some of the grandest white wines on the planet & because of that, their red wines often get overlooked or are under appreciated. While their whites are very profound, showy & seemingly chisled out of rock, their red wines tend to be more about elegance, ethereal-ness, stylish-ness, seamless-ness & suave-ability. I suggest you hold off on the 2002 right now, as it is closed down.
2001 Armand Rousseau Charmes Chambertin
One of the true masters of red Burgundy. Although the 2001 was also shut down & unyielding, there is NO doubt this wine is Grand Cru & deserved of its highly revered reputation. Oh my goodness!!!!! Total breed & pedigree with lots of intricacies & layering. I liken it to a treasured painting where the artist features timeless-ness, remarkably fine detail & intricate workmanship, yet making it his own without any clutter or overdone-ness. GREAT stuff!!!!!!! Just needs more time to resolve itself. The price tag for this wine is high & one could only dream to have a cellar well stocked with wines from this great Domaine.
1999 Domaine Maume Mazis Chambertin
Domaine Maume is a small domaine located in Gevrey Chambertin. Their style of wine is much more masculine, bolder, rustic & old style and full of character & pedigree. I find their Pinots to have a musk/pheromone quality along with an everchanging layering of earth, forest floor, raspberry/dark cherry, & sandalwood nuances. This 1999 was really strutting its stuff & was mesmerizing & so captivating in a very old style way. It’s certainly not for everyone, but sure rang my bell.
1982 Chateau Cos d’Estournel
The 1982 vintage was one of the most hyped vintages of all time for red Bordeaux, so there was much anticipation for the uncorking of this bottle. True to its St Estephe appellation origins, this wine was very earthy in character & quite masculine in style. I believe, however, this wine should have been decanted a few hours earlier so it had a chance to open up & better show its Second Growth pedigree rather than just the ripe, profound fruit & power of the 1982 vintage. Still, this is without a doubt, a true standout performance from this highly esteemed Chateau.
First of all, I must say, a Magnum of German Riesling is quite impressive to see. …..especially when it has the Fritz Haag name on it. This 11 year old Riesling was gorgeous & glorious. The apparent sweetness had begun to change to a more tactile creaminess on the palate. The minerality is again shining gloriously through with seamless-ness, surreal breed/pedigree & completeness from beginning to end & an utterly amazing long finish. I am always blown away at the wines from this iconic winemaking master & here is another example of why.