Dec
25

Older Wines

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Here is a yet another bunch of older wines we sampled in VINO.

2001 Arnaud Ente Meursault

Arnaud Ente is a relatively “new” star in Burgundy, where there are many stars, & lots of them coming from multi generational estates.  He wasn’t one of the fortunate to inherit vineyards & has instead had to work hard, buy grapes & buy parcels as he goes along & when he can afford to.  He is never the less, one heck’uv a winemaker with brilliance, passion & dedication & his wines show that.  The 2001 Meursault AOC is very captivating–wonderfully& quite ethereal, minerally, majestically perfumed, so tasty & invigorating, all done with class, seamlessness, impeccable balance & brilliance.  It really is drinking beautifully right now.

2001 Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino

Biondi Santi is the most revered name in this appellation & deservedly so.  In 1888, they released the first Brunello di Montalcino, after having aged in oak for 10 years.  They have since certainly put Montalcino on the world map for top echelon red wines.  This 2001 wow-ed me with its majestic-ness & surreal character, & even more so because it has done so in a style of its own.  The wine has layers upon layers of complexities–dark character, quite masculine, with roasted chestnuts, refined leather, coffee, dried fruit, sandalwood….& the list goes on & on…..to the point I don’t recall ever smelling something like this before.  It truly was mesmerizing, remarkably, effortlessly so….. and  I therefore have been thinking about it for 2 whole days!  Boy was this a wine.

2005 Guigal Cote Rotie “Chateau D’Ampuis”

I love Cote Rotie.  It is one of my favorite wines of the world.  It all started for me back in the 80’s with the wines from Marius Gentaz of Gentaz Dervieux, who sadly retired I believe with the 1992 vintage.  This 2005 Guigal is a far cry from those wines….as it is VERY showy, flambuoyant & loud, bordering being a “fruit bomb”.  It just explodes out of the glass with dark cacao, coffee, all kinds of roasted smells & not only fills the mouth, but actually coats the palate with amazing richness.  I know there are alot of wine lovers out there who will go gaga over this contemporarily styled Syrah.

1997 Domaine Laurent Charmes Chambertin

I am not that familar with this domaine & its wines.  The 1997 took 1 1/2 hours to really start to finally open up.  It was oozing with fruit, so juicy & surprisingly ample, forward….AND certainly Grand Cru in quality….with a really long finish.  As a nitpicking comment though, there was a gap between the mid palate & the finish where there was not enough fruit, & the acidity was therefore quite pronounced.   

 1999 Robert Chevillon Nuits St Georges 1er Cru “Les Perrieres”

I have been an avid fan of this domaine & its wines for quite some time.  They produce VERY refined, sheer,  elegant, intricate, classy Pinot from a number of the top crus of the Nuits St Georges appellation.  I was surprised that the 1999 was so shut down when the bottle was first opened.  All of the components, however, are there.  One just needs to be patient.

2004 Berthau Chambolle Musigny “Premier Cru”

This small domaine produced very pretty, wonderfully pefumed, captivating, delicious wines once open a time.  I love the profuse cherry nuances which comes out in all kinds of different shapes & sizes.  I in fact feel like I can do a whole study on cherry nuances with this wine.  The 2004 is drinking gorgeously & brings a smile almost immediately. I wouldn’t say it is classically Chambolle Musigny……more like deliciously Chambolle Musigny.  CAUTION:  FYI–the wines can be rather hit & miss, however, now that the son has taken over.

 

1985 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape

This domaine is my absolute favorite Chateauneuf-du-Pape producer, which has proven themselves over the years for pereninnaly producing terrific, intriguing, unique, soulful red wines with lots of character & breed.  The 1985 has a distinct stoniness…like sun  baked stones….with coffee grind nuances, leather, humus, white pepper/spice, musk, pan grille &  a real roasted quality.   I was really amazed at how youthful this 1985 tasted. & its remarkable youthful vigor & vitality still found in its core.

 

1983 Rene Rostaing Cote Rotie “La Landonne”

What a terrific wine!!!!….which clearly reminded me why I love Cote Rotie so much.  Yes, it has all of the roasted character, stones, leather, pepper, bay leaf & multitude of nuances which just kept unveiling itself as the wine blossomed with air time.  The piece de resistance for me, however was the true & majestic pedigree, savoriness & grandeur this wine effortlessly displays…..at 30 years old.  This is certainly a wine I will remember forever….it was that good!

 

1983 Chateau D’ Yquem

I was first taken back somewhat because of the golden-ness this wine had in color….BUT then I remembered it is 30 years in age.  AND, because of that age, the wine’s youthful apparent sweetness had radically changed to all kinds of textures & layering in the wine.  The nose was honeyed, full of dried apricot, beeswax, stones, lanolin & complexities which just kept opening open seemingly with every swirl of the glass.  I was also amazed at how long the finish was.   Really…..what a treat!!!!!!!

 

 

 

 

Categories : Wine, Wines Revisted

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