Older wines 12-28-12By
Last night was yet another wonderful opportunity to try some wines with a little bottle age to them. Here are some of the highlights.
On this night we had the opportunity to try THREE 2006 red Burgundies side by side. We started the trio with a Premier Cru from one of our all time favorite Burgundy masters, Robert Chevillon. While this house has quite a stable of Premier Cru holdings, we find Roncieres to be something unique. This roughly 1 hectare vineyard is contiguous to Pruliers in the southern part below the village. While it typically does not show the nobility or refinement of Les St Georges, Cailles or Vaucrain, it does display a musky, intriguingly rustic edge we like. On this night the 2006 was the most open & showy of the 3 with wonderful perfume, interesting-ness & class. It also was the most open palate wise too with a seamless-ness & completeness from beginning to end. The 2006 is a really pretty wine.
2006 Bouchard Pere & Fils Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot”
The Bouchard family, under the Bouchard Pere & Fils label, have quite a portfolio of stellar vineyard holdings up & down Burgundy. I was surprised to see that they actually own roughly 7.7 acres in this prime Premier Cru vineyard of Volnay. The 2006 was quite understated & much more delicately nuanced than the previous Chevillon wine, but still had the pedigree of Premier Cru. I loved its enticing, more alluring perfume & how ethereal it seemed on the palate. I think this will be a very pretty wine with some more bottle age.
2006 Lucien Boillot Gevrey Chambertin Premier Cru “Cherbaudes”
Cherbaudes is a small Premier Cru vineyard, adjacent on one side to the Grand Cru, Chapelle Chambertin and across the road from 2 other Grand Crus–Mazis Chambertin & Charmes Chambertin. It typically is for me the most interesting from the Lucien Boillot stable of Premier Crus. As expected it is quite masculine with bravado (at least for a Pinot) with lots of musk, earth characteristics & a harder, firmer structure than the 2 previous wines. This one has a ways to go before really showing something.
2002 Frederic Magnien Morey St Denis Premier Cru “Clos Baulet”
I think this wine will win alot of friends because of how showy it is. The nose just jumps out of the glass with ripe fruit, humus, spice & sandalwood nuances & continued to open up with air time. On the palate the wine had surprisingly richness & loveliness. There is quite bit of oak here, but with the 10 years of bottle age, it seems to have gotten very well integrated & really frames the wine well.
Yes, this iconic Meursault master produes a little RED wine too, which he has since grafted or replanted this parcel over to Chardonnay. As idiosyncratic as his white wines maybe, this RED Burgundy is too. I love its absolue delicious-ness & its sheer, juicy, vibrant red fruit with has all kinds of earthy, sandalwood, Asian spice undertones. It may not be Grand Cru, but it sure is a delicious drink!!!
1996 Anne Gros Chambolle Musigny “La Combe d’Orveau”
There were high hopes & anticipation for this wine. It, however, was completely shut down. Even the 45 or so minutes of decanting/glug glugging it did NOT help….at all. There is still alot of fruit to its core & all of the pieces seem to be in place. One just needs to be patient.
I have had some of Juillot’s Corton Charlemagnes in the past, but that’s about it from this producer. Like the 1996 Anne Gros before it, this 1996 was also shut down when the cork was popped. After much decanting, however, it turned out to be a very pretty, ethereal, light Pinot which was wonderfully delicious.
I have been quite pleasantly surprised with some of the 1997 Champy wines we have been fortunate to taste recently. They are light & pretty with a wonderful ethereal-ness, which I find captivating. I couln’t say these wines are Vin Garde….BUT I found this one quite stunning, pretty & me wanting to go back for more & more. It is definitely Grand Cru in breed, just done in a very feminine, lighter style.