Sep
13

Older White Burgundies

By

It has been a whirlwind week with lots going on!  Fortunately, we were also treated to some very special wines which made things seem much better.  Here are a few of the highlights.

2002 Robert Denogent Pouilly Fuisse “Les Carrons” MAGNUM

Jean Jacques Robert is regularly grouped with the high profile “Gang of Four” from Morgon over in Beaujolais.  In case you have not heard of this group, they take a very “back to basics” philosophy, culture & approach to producing their wines from the vineyard to the winemaking to the bottling.  It may seem unusual for a Maconnais producer like Robert Denogent to be included with these Beaujolais renegades, but when you understand their thinking, practices & culture better it makes total sense.  Fortunately for Robert, his family has a stable of small, old vine parcels from which he produces his small lots of worldly Chardonnay.  Les Carrons, for instance, is a scant .6 hectare pacel of 90 plus year old vines planted in very rocky, thin soils.  Although I have really appreciated his wines for many years, this 2002, now 10 years old, was a truly superb, stunning, absolutely delicious, provocative Chardonnay, which in a blind tasting, I believe many btasters would guess it to be Cote d’Or rather than Macon.  WOW!

1996 Colin Deleger Chassagne Montrachet Premier Cru “En Remilly”

I have been a BIG fan of Michel Colin & his wines for many years.  Unlike many of his peers who produce more showy, flashy wines, Michel instead crafts Chardonnays which are very elegant, refined, sublime & classy.  This particular 1996 was fabulous.  Talk about having a wine at the perfect time of its life!!!!!  The nose was glorious with incredible complexity, nuance & pedigree coupled with marzopan, roasted nuts, creamsicle AND lots of limestone-ness.  I was also completely mesmerized with how vibrant & alive the inner core of fruit & structure still showed.  A real knockout!  Michel has already started to divide up his vineyard holding between his 2 sons, Bruno & Philippe, who are now producing wines under their own labels.  For me, Michel is still kindpin in that family & this wine clearly reminded me of that.

2001 Colin Deleger Chassagne Montrahet Premier Cru “Les Vergers

Here is yet another example of Michel Colin’s amazing, masterful skill.  I absolutely adored how transparent, sublime & highly refined this wine tasted. Despite being 11 years old. this 2001 was remarkably youthful.  Still, I am now convinced that the Colin Deleger white wines typically need some bottle to show its true pedigree & character.  Be patiemt.

1991 Francois Jobard Meursault Premier Cru “Charmes”

We have been VERY fortunate to have tasted a truly amazing number of older Jobard Premier Cru in the past 12 months..  For me, each has been a REAL revelation!!!!!  Because these wines are tightly fisted & vigorously structured in their youth & very old style, many tasters would be underwhelmed by the Jobard wines upon release.  Be patient!!!!  It really is worth it.  I wish I could convey how glorious these wines can become.  It is true, however, these wines (even the older ones) are not for everyone.  They are high in acid & when aged get a fresh bread, oxidized/sherry-like character which is NOT for everyone.  I happen to  love it!  Plus the inner core is so full of vigor & amazing purity.  This taste of the 1991 is yet another example of having a terrific wine at an ideal time.  TRULY AMAZING!

Categories : Wine, Wines Revisted

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