Food & WineBy
On the Left, we have Sous Vide of Kuahiwi Beef “Poke”….& on the Right, Kampachi Roll-a-Tini, both from Hiroshi Eurasion Tapas (Chef John Iha & Doug Fujii respectively). The wine we chose is the Oroya, a dry, amazingly light & crisp white wine from Spain. This highly innovative wine is produced from 3 indigenous Spanish grape varieties & crafted by Japanese national Yoko Sato specifically with contemporary Japanese foods in mind. The wine’s innate minerality & citrus like edge just heigthened the foods, like a fresh squeeze of lemon would. We also loved how this wine was delicious, light bodied & gulpable by itself. Sadly, this wine is NOT produced any more.
This is one of Chef John Iha’s new dishes in Hiroshi Eurasion Tapas–Braised Octopus with shishito peppers, charred tomatoes & a smoked miso dressing. The ideal wine would be a slightly aged German Riesling, such as the 2001 Künstler Kabinett “Hochheimer Reichestal”. First of all, Gunter Künstler is one of the Rheingau’s top, New Age winemakers. His Hochheim Rieslings have lots of depth, earthy & base notes & are much more forward in style, which is what we needed for the meatiness of the braised octopus. The wine’s once apparent sweetness has now changed into a more tactile creaminess which works much better with the smoked miso dressing & the wine’s innate acidity & minerality freshens the palate well between bites. Choosing which wine to pair was really a toss up. We could easily have worked instead with a slightly aged Gunderloch “Jean Baptiste”, which has more apparent minerality because of their vineyards’ red slate soils.
Oven Roasted Maine Lobster with porcini, asparagus risotto
One of the most interesting pairings with lobster for me is the Champalou Vouvray. There are lots of Vouvrays out there, but there is only 1 Champalou. Their Vouvrays are so effortlessly light & rivetingly minerally with NO hard edges whatsoever. This really is a match made in heaven.
Crispy Skin Opakapaka with Italian butter beans, pancetta, garlic & tomatoes.
The wine we paired with this dish was the Domaine Skouras “Zoe”, which is a blend of 70% Roditis & 30% Moschofilero from the Peloponnese. This wonderfully aromatic, light white Greek wine just accents the dish & uplifts the flavors. In addition, because of the Moschofilero, this wine has more viscosity than many other Mediterranean white wines, which can handle the beans & the tomatoes.
Sous Vide of Duck with a patty of shredded duck confit & taro with duck jus
We felt we really needed a complex, yet well rounded red wine with this dish, so we opened the 1995 Serafini & Vidotto “Il Rosso dell’Abazia”. This Cabernet blend from Italy’s Veneto region can be quite a Bordeaux wanna-bee in size & weight. The 1995, however, is very fine, refined & surprisingly delicate. The earthy flavors work well with the jus. We were also thinking about serving an older Brewer Clifton Pinot Noir. Because BC does so much stem inclusion in their winemaking style, it is amazing how with some bottle age (like 10 years) how the wine REALLY changes & opens up.