Domaine Comtesse Bernard de Chérisey.By
In a tasting today, we were fortunate to sample 3 fabulous 2010 Premier Cru white Burgundies from Domaine Comtesse Bernard de Chérisey.
Based in the relatively unknown hamlet of Blagny, which is located higher up the slope between Meursault & Puligny Montrachet…..the combination of this higher elevation (& cooler growing conditions), their resounding high mineral parcels & the winemaking skill of of Laurent make for some very interesting, unique, compelling wines which truly standout in my mind…..in a “throw back” style reminiscent of the way it was. Needless to say, eventhough I have tasted only a few vintages, I am all in with these wines.
In addition to the three 2010’s, I brought a bottle of the 2004 Meursault Blagny Premier Cru “Les Genelotte” just to compare.
Cherisey’s Genellotte vineyard is located high up the steep slope above the village & it is therefore distinctively cooler than the vineyards below. It is also VERY rocky, much more so than the other two, at least to the naked eye. I typically find this wine to have remarkable power (which I am sure is at least partially accentuated by the winemaking), just packed with intensity & innate complexities, a REAL stony character with lots of base notes & higher levels of structure & acidity, which the 2010 deftly displayed. The 2004, in comparison, had wonderful perfume, full of rock & marzipan nuance with roasted nuts, clove & lots of pedigree. In my mind this wine undoubtedly reminded me of white Burgundies of old….actually classic & a pure joy to savor!
The Premier Cru Hameau de Blagny vineyard is located just on the south side of Blagny, just above the highly revered Truffieres vineyard of Puligny. The 2010 was also packed with intensity & concentration but seemed to have more refinement, finesse & pedigree. It was another knock out to say the least.
Their Premier Cru holding of Chalumeaux is at a lower elevation & located between 2 of Burgundy’s superstar vineyards–Puligny’s Truffieres & Meursault’s Perrieres. The 2010 displayed the most minerality, ethereal-ness, intricasies & breed of the 3, which is saying alot based upon this tasting.
I am always astounded when tasting these wines at how the oak is in the background & used more as a frame for the core as opposed to a dominant flavor/taste, eventhough Laurent typically uses 40 to 50% new oak in each of these wines. I know partly, it is because the wines are lower in alcohol & therefore absorb the alcohol differently than warm climate/higher alcohol wines. At the same time, in these 4 wines the minerality is so utterly resounding & profound, it really is the main centerpiece both in the nose & in the taste.
In an attempt to better paint a picture of this domaine’s wines, I would say unlike many of the region’s superstars whose wines depict sophistication, elegance & refinement, Cherisey’s wines are really about soul, character & a classic style.
In any case, this is definitely a domaine worth checking out!