Jan
14

A Trio of 2005 Italians

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The 2005 vintage was considered to produce some very profound wines in Italy.  We have tasted some pretty, sundrenched, resoundingly structured trophy end RED wines which are seemingly built for long term aging.  We thought it would be fun & enlightening to taste three 2005 Italians–2 Reds….& 1 iconic white….….now 9, (almost 10) years old, just to see where they are in the development curve.   Rest assured, I decanted these 5 or 6 hours before the tasting.  Just another really good opportunity to learn!

 

a032005 Gravner Ribolla Gialla “Amphora”

an indigenous Italian grape variety made in the old ways (wild yeast in clay amphora & buried in the ground just as the Romans did)…by true iconic winemaker Josko Gravner.  This “orange” wine featured wonderful minerality, with all kinds of idiosyncratic, crazy nuances, which just seem to unveil as the wine opened up.  Seamless & remarkably UN-heavy though masculine & resoundingly structured in style.  It really was an interesting glass of wine.

 

2005 Corte de Signori Amarone della Valpolicella  a02

70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella & 5% Molinara—dried out on straw mats for 3 months & aged in ovals for 30 months.  I am not a huge fan of Amarone, as I find them to really be about ripeness & over ripeness rather than terroir.  I could definitely say the same about alot of dessert wines.  Yet, after 30 or 40 years of bottle age, I interestingly find that the terroir can once again emerge after the wine has had a chance to resolve itself.  I wonder if that also happens with Amarone?  Although I have tasted some older Bertani bottlings, I am still not convinced.

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a012005 Paolo Scavino Barolo “Bric del Fiasc”

one of the showiest, most flambuoyant, upper tier single vineyard Barolo.  Definitely ultra-modern & way over the top for me.  In my early years, I always thought youthful Gaja Barbaresco was too oaky & over the top too.  Then, one time, I experienced a glorious 20 year old 1978 Costa Russi & that completely changed my view.  I am wondering if that too can happen with the Paolo Scavino wines?

Categories : Wine, Wines Revisted

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