As you may know, Palmina is a wine project dedicated to Italian grape varieties grown & produced in the Santa Barbara appellation by Chrystal & Steve Clifton. The 2012’s are a truly stunning set of new releases…..actually better than most Italians we taste. The quantum leap in quality is because their vines are maturing AND the wines are now wild yeast fermented & aged for a short time in OLD oak, as opposed to only stainless steel as we saw in the past. The minerality & terroir is still clear & transparent, but with more round-ness & texture.
Arneis “Honea Vineyard” 2012–From the Honea vineyard—sandy soils in the Los Olivos district. Wild yeast fermented & aged in stainless & old oak. Definitely has a green thing running around in the nose & taste, rounder than previous vintages with a crisp, refreshing edge. My over all comment is, if the staff can sell a sauvignon blanc, they can certainly sell this wine. For the price—much more quality for the dollar than many Italian versions.
Tocai Friulano “Honea Vineyard” 2012–From the Honea vineyard—sandy soils in the Los Olivos district. Wild yeast fermented & aged in stainless & old oak. Again, my over all comment is, if the staff can sell a sauvignon blanc, they can certainly sell this wine. For the price—much more quality for the dollar than many Italian versions (where it is now named Friulano). 90% of this wine is whole cluster pressed into stainless, & wild yeast fermented. The other 10% sees a 30 day skin contact, wild yeast fermented in OLD oak. While this grape has similar characteristics as sauvignon, it also innately has a slight nuttiness/bitterness & should be paired with more complex dishes, which have vegetables or some meat to it.
Palmina Malvasia Bianca 2012–These kinds of aromatic grape varieties I believe is a VERY important & needed segment of white wines, instrumental in better pairings with today’s contemporary foods. As I mentioned to one wine professional today, I think it is important to teach the staff how to sell these kinds of wines. The mentholating/perfume qualities really help heighten the foods, just as herbs will. The garpes for this wine come from the Alisos Vineyard of Los Alamos & the Larner Vineyard of Ballard Canyon. After 24 hours of reefer, the grapes are whole cluster pressed, wild yeast fermented, which finishes its fermentation in OLD oak.
Young winemaking phenom, Gavin Chanin, is hotter than hot right now, including at least 1 “Winemaker of the Year” award. He therefore is moving up the pecking order for top quality parcels in some of Santa Barbara’s most revered vineyards & prized parcels. What separates the Chanin Santa Barbaran grown wines from those grown in other wine growing regions, is minerality. This helps to push the wines beyond fruit & oak, as well as help buttress the wine’s acidity, keep the alcohol levels moderate & much more balanced. These wines were REALLY terrific at today’s tasting & without a doubt the best we have had from tis young winery.
Chanin Chardonnay “Los Alamos” 2012–The grapes come from the highest point in the vineyard, where the sandy soils change to more calcaric shale/limestone. The wine is whole cluster pressed, barrel fermented & aged for 16 months in French oak (15% new). This wine was so ethereal, pretty, with fabulous texture—Quite ABC Nuits Blanches like. Fabulous!
Chanin Chardonnay “Bien Nacido” 2012–I believe Gavin gets W Block, 41 year old vines. Whole cluster pressed, barrel fermented, 11 months in French oak (30% new). This wine was much more stony, more masculine than the Los Alamos with more grandeur.
Chanin Chardonnay “Sanford & Benedict” 2012–This is definitely one of the finest Chardonnay vineyards in ALL of California. Gavin gets fruit from one of the older parcels (planted in 1976)—rocky soils with diatomaceous earth. They believe this is a Wente Chardonnay selection from Mt Eden. The wine is whole cluster pressed, sees 11 months in French oak (25% new). Definitely has breed & class!
Chanin Pinot Noir “Los Alamos” 2012–777 & 115, NO stem inclusion, 11 months in oak (20% new). This is a VERY pretty, lighter colored, REALLY ethereal, enticing, more feminine Pinot with is still SO seamless, charming, refined & classy. VERY impressive!!!
Chanin Pinot Noir “Rinconada” 2012–This vineyard is located next to Sanford & Benedict, 50% Pommard & 50% Mt Eden, 40% stems, 15 months in French oak, 25% new. Still lighter in color, BUT much more masculine & grander in style.
Justin Willett is is a NEW AGE superstar & his wines are on the very top winelists in New York, San Francisco & the other major markets. OUTSTANDING!!!!! He is just now hitting his stride & many insiders are saying his 2012’s are his finest wines to date!! His is a passion for purity, finesse, texture & balance (naturally)…almost effortlessly so.
Tyler Chardonnay “Zotovich” 2012–Dijon clone 76, grown in the wind pounded, sand, extreme Zotovich vineyard. This wine is SOOO pure, seamless & sophisticated. Many say, this is his finest Chardonnay to date…..which is saying alot.
Tyler Pinot Noir “La Encantada” 2012–667 & Pommard, panted in 1999 & organically farmed. 20% new oak. This is his most savory Pinot….only 4 barrels produced. WOW!
It has been a while since we tasted Beaujolais Here are three 2013’s. In a former professional life, we fell in love with a group of 9 from the region. This would have been back in the late 80’s/early 90’s. The wines were so darn good, tasty & soooo irresistible. Here are 3 of the 9. Isn’t it amazing, that after the 20 plus which have passed, & ALL of the wines I have since tasted, that that list of 9 has not changed!!! It just doesn’t get better for me. When you taste these, you will understand.
Chignard Fleurie “Les Moriers” 2013–The Les Moriers parcel is like a finger jutting out & therefore surrounded by Moulin-a-Vent. His is 8 hectares of 60 year old vines. Sees 13 months in OLD foudres. “light, playful yet deep, ripe fruit”, with a lovely charming personality. Superb!
Nicole Chanrion Cote de Brouilly 2013–Located mid-slope on the Mt Brouilly—black/blue granite, which is very different from the pink granite below.. 6 hectares of 50year old vines. Whole cluster/carbonic. Intriguing, frisky with a slight, surprising masculine edge.
Chateau Thivin Cote de Brouilly 2013–The oldest estate on the MT Brouilly. The grade is steep (48%), black/blue granite, high up. “handsome, virile, earthy aristocrat”.
I have a true passion for great Riesling & it has been very long running. Bert Selbach & his Dr F Weins Prum has to be top 4 for me. Having said that, though, if I were to start a German wine portfolio & could choose whoever I wanted, Bert Selbach would be #1!!!! First of all he is descendent of the iconic Prum family & therefore inherited a dream team of single vineyard parcels. Secondly, he is essentially, a 1 man show & the wines are certainly artisan & handcrafted.. Thirdly, & probably most importantly, his wines have incredible, captivating lightness, ethereal-ness, delicious-ness, refinement & sophistication, and they can therefore appeal to a wide audience of wine drinkers, from layperson to the most picky of wine expert. Here are 2 standouts for you to see for yourself.
Dr.F. Weins-Prum Riesling Kabinett “Urziger Wurtzgarten” 2011–½ a hectare in one of the steepest vineyards of the Mosel with a reddish to the slate…..which clearly shows in the perfume. What an amazing wine this is!!!!! Harvested at 89.7 oechsle, 7 total acidity, 51 g/lresidual sugar. For me, the wine of the day!!!
Dr.F. Weins-Prum Riesling Spatlese “Wehlener Sonnenuhr” 2012–One hectare in this “Grand Cru” (my words). Harvested at 100 oechsle, 7 .8 total acidity, 90g/l residual sugar. OMG!!!!!
3 epic, rustic red wines from the 2007 vintage (7 yars old)—2 from Italy & 1 from Spain. Each should really ring your bell. It is VERY important for us at VINO to continually feature top caliber wines from the Mediterranean basin. Yes, it is our passion….BUT….it makes sense with the kind of foods Chef Keith creates. How does the lay person sift through all of the labels & marketing jargon to better determine what to buy? Here are 3. Yes, just another opportunity to learn!
There are many top caliber Brunello di Montalcino. Ciacci Picolomini, however, standout because of their desire to make the wines in the vineyard & then showcase its purity in the finished wine. Although many producers may say that in their spiel, Ciacci Picolomini truly delivers it in the wine. Pianrosso is their top site—stony slopes near the Orcia river in the south-southwest corner of Montalcino. This majestic, 100% Brunello is fermented in stainless & concrete & aged for 36 months in 20 to 62 hectoliter Slavonian oak.
This is a very masculine, provocative style of Barolo from Alice Bel Colle in the Alto Monferrato area of Piemonte. Theirs is a contiguous 96 acres of hillside, east to southeast facing at 950 feet elevation. This wine was aged for 24 months in large Slavonian casks & old French oak barrels.
Clos Pissarra is a new standout wine project from Priorat, Spain, under the direction of Mater Sommelier Emanuel Komeiji. They excel at small batches of superstar wines, grown in the VERY steep, non-terraced hillsides of slate with virtually no top soil. La Vinyeta is their top bottling, 2.5 acres of 125 year old Carignane & Grenache. The yield in 2007 was a miniscule 1 ton, for the 2 ½ acres!!!!!!—1/4 ton per acre……50 cases worth..
A while back, a friend asked me to start digging around for interesting Washington state wines. He strongly felt, this is the time, as there is a whole, NEW generation of winemaking phenoms emerging in the Washington state wine scene AND taking it by storm. This whole scene reminds me of what unfolded in Paso Robles, Santa Barbara & the Anderson Valley, where a group of young bucks are looking to change the game. Furthermore, the Rhone varietal based reds can provocatively fill that opening between Pinot & Cabernet, in terms of weight & drama. Thankfully, the pursuit is making wines offering better natural balance without compromising depth & true character.
Here is one of the real standouts…..created by Sean Boyd…in homage to the wines of France’s Rhone Valley. Thankfully, these wines are very balanced, elegant, refined & classy.
Rotie Cellars Southern White 2013–60% Viognier, 25% Roussanne & 15% Marsanne, wild yeast fermented in stainless steel. These kind of exotically perfumed, seamless, well textured white wines are especially well suited for contemporary styled foods.
Rotie Cellars Northern White 2013–100% Marsanne, wild yeast fermented in stainless with 30% malolactic, this wine is much more masculine & structured with a more stoniness.
Rotie Cellars Southern Red 2012–65% Grenache, 25% Mourvedre & 10% Syrah. The whole berries are cracked not crushed, wild yeast fermented & spends 16 months in 2 & 3 year French oak barrels. Such a lovely, charming, seductively textured beauty.
Rotie Cellars Northern Red 2012–97% Syrah & 3% Viognier co-fermented. One can smell the rocks of Walla Walla in this wine 16 months in 2 & 3 year barrels. This is a gorgeous, savory, masculine, yet seamless, well textured & delicious.
Here is a VERY interesting project we have anxiously waited for, for some time. The estate vineyard is located in the Red Mountain appellation at higher (930 to 1230 feet), more rocky site than the highly revered Ciel du Cheval. The first wave of Force Majeure wines which have arrived to the Islands are part of their “Collaborative Series”. Each is a collaborative bottling features Ciel du Cheval fruit, crafted by some of the VERY top winemakers of the state…..with Wine Advocate scores beginning at 93 points & the highest being 96 points. The production levels of each wine range from 180 to 280 cases, which coupled with the high scores, makes it that more amazing we even were get some for the state of Hawaii!!! Furthermore, for the long term, as their estate vineyard matures, they have hired on Todd Alexander, former winemaker of Bryant Family in the Napa Valley, who also worked with icons such as superstar vineyard-ist David Abreu & superstar French consultant Michel Rolland. This certainly is a project to continually keep an eye on!
Force Majeure Collaboration Series II Syrah 2011–A collaboration with Ross Mikel of Ross Andrew winery. 98% Syrah & 1% each of Viognier & Roussanne (Ciel du Cheval)..20 months in French oak (33% new). 93 to 95 points—The Wine Advocate….only 180 cases produced. Smokey, dark, sinister, intriguing, intense, masculine yet very aristocratic.
Force Majeure Collaboration Series VI Red Wine 2011–A collaboration with James Mantone of Syncline. 47% Mourvedre, 42% Syrah & 11% Grenache (Ciel du Cheval). Fermented in concrete egg & old oak puncheons, aged for 18 months. 94 to 96 points—The Wine Advocate….only 280 cases produced. Another masculine, mega-intense beast.
Force Majeure Collaboration Series IV Red Wine 2010–A collaboration with Carolyn lakewold of Donedei wines. 75% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc & 2% Petite Verdot. (Ciel du Cheval). Essentially FREE run juice aged in French & American oak (50% new). 94 points—The Wine Advocate….only 200 cases produced. A “tour de force”, sophisticated Right Bank look-a-like.
Force Majeure Collaboration Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2011–A collaboration with Chris Gorman of Gorman wines. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon (Ciel du Cheval-from the incredibly steep parcel). 20 months in 100% new Taransaud barrels. 93 to 95 points—The Wine Advocate….only 200 cases produced. A masculine, statement Cabernet of incredible intensity & fortitude.
Again, one of our goals for 2014 is to feature more & more good wines……those which others can be compared to. This will help tasters create a solid base to work from as their tasting adventures continue. It is not as easy as one would think. Here are 4 standouts for our tasting in VINO tonight. Yes, just another really good opportunity to learn! Wines like this just don’t happen along!
In a time where people seek Brunello which have a more King Kong persona, here is a much more elegant, suave, highly refined version masterfully crafted by “Hall of Famer” Vittorio Fiore. In speaking with Vittorio recently, I admire how he champions bio diversity in the vineyard & specifically the appreciation for heirloom & heritage plant material. I also love how he strives for purity, texture & balance in his wines, rather than power, showiness & clamour. Here is an example.
2012 Lionel Faury St Joseph
SENSATIONAL French Syrah—hillside grown (up to 35% slope), granitic soils, stomped by foot, 12 months mostly in large foudres & demi muids (10% new oak)–gloriously Old World Syrah, the way it should be—explosively aromatic, wildly rustic, masculine, stony & authentic. What a perfune!!!!!–meaty, peppery, peppercorns, gamey, lavender/violets. I am sure glad there are still winemakers looking to make more authentic, classical, handcrafted wines like this, that’s for sure!
2012 Domaine Trotereau Quincy “Vieilles Vignes”
TOP echelon Sauvignon Blanc grown in sandy soils & silex with underlying pink limestone. Not too many people will remember that Quincy was the 2nd recognized AOC in France (1936)….& that monks started planting here in the 12th Century. There is a reason, isn’t there? There are today only about 200 hectares planted & the majority of the fruit goes to co-ops. Here is one of the true artisan “boutiques”—dating back to 1804. The vines for this “Vieilles Vignes” cuvee were planted in 1905 through 1943. This wine has a wonderful, flinty kind of minerality which is more masculine than ethereal, but captivating & riveting nonetheless. Here is yet another example of why I am glad some things don’t change!!!!!!
2009 Franz Hirtzberger Gruner Veltliner Smaragd “Rotes Tor”
Hirtzberger is certainly one of the true pillars (5 generations) of Austria’s Wachau Valley. Here is one of their standout, single vineyard Gruner Veltliners—from Rotes Tor, a steep, very rocky hillside. You will be surprised at the intensity, immensity & concentrated character of this wine. Yes, this wine has a thickness, an almost unctuous viscosity, which is not heavy or overbearing to the palate The Oechsle levels must have been really higher than what is labeled. The resounding stoniness helps to buttress the wine’s acidity levels. This is an example of power, character & grandeur, that’s for sure!
One of our goals for 2014 is to show more & more tasters what is “good” wine. On this night, there was no serious agenda. It was just to show some of our wine friends, how blind tasting could help discern different attributes of some, what I think, good wines.
Our first wine of the tasting was a new release from Andis Wines, which is located in Plymouth, California. We think what winemaker Mark McKenna is doing, is worth checking out. He seeks delicious-ness, texture & balance in his wines. With the 2011 vintage Andis purchased grapes (115 cases worth) from the iconic Grandpere Vineyard. (Because someone else is using the same name, this 10 acre vineyard is now referred to as the “Original Grandpere Vineyard”). The now VERY fragile vines are 143 years in age & cared for by Terry Garvey with motherly love & care. Located at 1300 feet in elevation, this is the “oldest documented Zin vineyard in California“. The soil is sandy loam on decomposed Sierra Nevada granite.
The tasters noted ripe fruit…(my wife Cheryle noting strong blueberry character)……raisiny….oak, spiced, VERY vinous with lots of underlying character & nuance. The wine had a wonderful mouthfeel–rich, lush, seamless–with a little alcohol poking out in the finish. Everyone really loved the wine’s innate vinosity…its flow, texture & over all balance. Yes, we would all buy it again…..which I think says alot. I believe, however, this wine is only available at the winery.
This is a Bordeaux, which we feel offers GREAT VALUE. The estate is 10.4 hectares of vineyards, with very gravelly soils, in the Haut Medoc (in fact across an old drainage ditch away from Chateau Giscours in Margaux). The 2010 is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot & 20% Petite Verdot, which was aged in oak (40% new) for 14 months.
On first whiff, one can definitely smell the gravel….& most tasters immediately started discussing Bordeaux. The gravel/pencil lead quality permeated throughout the wine from beginning to end. The wine has wonderful balance & flowed very evenly & seamlessly on the palate. A pretty, tasty wine.
Here was highly quality Italian Nebbiolo in all its glory. Most tasters were quite surprised at how open it showed. Tar, earth, musk, cedar & floral nuances just jumped out of the glass. The wine has refinement, class & pedigree & was the most complex, by far, of the first 3. YES, we would all definitely buy another of this majestic Italian.
The estate is but 4 hectares of 50 to 70 year old vines. The vineyard is terraced & meticulously farmed. (On our last visit, my wife Cheryle was surprised to hear cuckoo birds in the vineyard). The 2007 was aged in 80% German & Austrian oak (20hl) & 20% French for 2 years.
2009 Muller Catoir Gimmeldingen Riesling Dry & 2011 Schloss Lieser Spatlese Dry
Our goal here was just to show tasters how soil can greatly affect a Riesling. And as tasters soon saw, DRY versions are most transparent. One has to, therefore, be precise & skillful in producing one.
The Gimmeldingen parcels (of Pfalz, Germany) are largely loess & sand, & this wine in comparison showed a softer, lush, rounder wine with a more tropical fruit profile.
The 2011 Schloss Lieser Estate Spatlese in 2011, on the other hand, was 100% Niederberg Helden (on the Mosel)–steep, rocky(weathered slate)–with NO botrytis–(harvested at 95 degress oechsle) with pencil lead, higher toned pear, apple, slight lychee fruit & much more pronounced acidity. I think tasters will remember this comparison for a long time!
Thank you to all who participated!
The Scherrer Vineyard is located on a bench in Alexander Valley, above the Silver Oak planting. The first vines were planted in the 1912. The “Mature” vines were planted in the early 70’s.. The best way, I can describe this SENSATIONAL bottling, is to say, this is a superb old vine Zin crafted by a Pinot master—elegant, suave, well textured, seamless & so impeccably balanced.
The legendary Monte Rosso vineyard was planted in the 1880’s on a steep, rocky hillside on the Sonoma side of the Mayacamas Mountains. This wine is 99.8% Burgundian oak, 25% of which is new. If you haven’t checked out Robert Biale before, here is your chance…..& with their best bottling.
Carol Shelton has garnered so many awards & acclaimed for her single vineyard Zins over the years, it really is hard to keep up with it all. Still, she is remarkably & thankfully as humble & “down to earth” as can be. We love her Zins because they exude a ‘sense of place”, have vinosity & have wonderful texture & balance. I believe this is the last vintage she used the 105 year old vine fruit from Rue Vineyard on revered Wood Road for this bottling. The 2007 spent 18 months in oak, a combination of French, American & Hungarian to “frame” her art piece.
This is a masterful Zinfandel blend (78% Zin, 28% Syrah & 4% Mourvedre) grown in the limestone/siliceous clay hillsides of Paso Robles from winemaking superstar Matt Trevisan. Matt has several really interesting Zin parcels to work with–Heaton, , Whalebone Hill, Poppy & Cushman being the most notable. Typically Whalebone Hill forms the core of the “Outsider” bottling, blended with some lower brix/higher acid Syrah to keep tension in the wine & lowering the over alcohol content. He is without a doubt at the top of his game right now & this wine will show you first hand why.
Carlisle is undoubtedly the most highly acclaimed Zin maestro in the game today as supported by all of the high scores & press he deservedly garners year after year. This organically farmed vineyard was planted in the 1927 in the eastern bench of the Santa Rosa flood plain of the Russian River Valley. They have so far identified 50 different grape varieties in the vineyard–a TRUE heirloom vineyard! Truly, one of the standouts today!
Here are 4 tasty, very interesting red wines from southern France.
I have become a real sucker for Old Vine Carignane, especially when it is grown & produced in the hands of an artist like this. Yes, this is a relatively new domaine, but the vines of this 1 hectare parcel are over 100 years old & now really showcases the clay-limestone soils the vines grow in. It really is about the hands on farming & the
hands off winemaking. BUT you really need to know what you are doing!
2009 Roquete Chateauneuf-du-Pape
The Brunier brothers of Vieux Telegraphe bought this domaine a few years ago. This domaine produces a very different Chateauneuf-du-Pape, eventhough the Brunier brothers oversee it. It is really because the vineyards are so different than Vieux Telegraphe & its highly revered La Crau parcel. One vineyard, for instance has more sand, which gives the wines more finesse. Another has galets, for the stony character of top notch Chateauneuf. Yet another has clay on a bedrock of limestone. So, eventhough the grape mix is similar to Telegraphe, the resulting wine is VERY different. Kind of like singing a song in a different voice.
80% Mourvedre, 18 months in foudre, this is bold, masculine Bandol with character, depth, complexity, soul AND finesse in a very unique & different way than its more famous neighbor Domaine Tempier, a few stops down the road.
This is classic Old World Syrah in all its glory. For those tasters asking what a bench mark French Syrah smells & tastes like, here is the one for you. 850 feet in elevation & only 150 feet away from the officially designated Cote Rotie hillsides. WOW!
Today’s winetasting VINO was an opportunity to explore…AND hopefully have some fun along the way.
2012 Chateau Feuillet Petite Arvine
A VERY unique white wine from Valle D’Aosta at high altitudes & hand built stone terraces to hold the soils & vines in place. I believe that is why they planted vines too….so the roots would help hold the soil in place.
“The vines actually sit in a very shallow sandy soil, but their feet wriggle into crevices in the solid granite bedrock. Any rain is quickly dried out by cleansing winds. And the vineyards are planted on an ancient riverbed, where over the millennia the Dora Baltea River has cut through the mountain, creating the current river valley and leaving behind mineral deposits that the wines happily lap up. The trump card, however, may be the exposition of the vineyards, which in combination with the chilly climate, high altitude, and drastic diurnal temperature shifts provides the magic charm sought by vignerons everywhere: extremely long hours of gentle sunlight”.
“Maxime Magnon is part of one of the most revolutionary wine movements in France should give him a justifiable swagger to his step. Born & raised he Burgundy, because he could not afford land there, he founded his domaine down in Corbieres, amid a rocky, limestone-schist terrain, thankfully already the home to a series of organically farmed, really old vines, from heirloom grape selections. La Begou is currently his one white wine—primarily a blend of 50 to 60 year old vine Grenache Gris & Grenache Blanc, wild yeast fermented & so VERY unique in character”.
wild yeast fermented, partly in stainless, though mainly in old demi-muids….& aged for 16 months in 12 year old barrels.
As VINO regulars well know, we are big fans of the wines from Maxime Francois Laurent & Domaine Gramenon. He is part of the vanguard who are passionately & dedicatedly looking to grow & produce their wines as naturally as possible. Here is one that is truly unique!!!! 80% Clairette, 20% Viognier, 30 year old, organically farmed vines grown in clay limestone. The wine finishes its fermentation in the bottle
When I mentioned German wines, most people make funny faces in response. It has become very apparent to me, the words “German wines”, conjure up images of sweet, syrupy wines for many.
There are many things I would love to say about that, but we’ll save that discussion for another day. I would prefer to instead focus on the thought that ALL wines can be made dry, medium dry, medium sweet, sweet & dessert in style…….depending on what the winemaker wants to do…..whether it is Cabernet, Chardonnay, sparkling, red or white.
While it is true that there are many German wines which are made sweet, there are also many wines vinified DRY. For many years, VINO regulars have been asking us to do a German wine tasting.
Well, here it is. We chose to do a DRY white wine tasting first, because it is regarded as the purest form of German white wine.
Great producers believe any flaw in a dry white wine can readily be seen, smelled & tasted in their dry wines. The growing & selection of grapes is therefore of paramount importance.
In addition, for this tasting, we looked to feature 4 of the VERY best dry wine producers out Germany…..kind of a dream team!!!! The goal is to show tasters what excellence is. Wines like these don’t come around too often….just another opportunity to learn!
2012 Hans Wirsching Scheurebe DRY
The Scheurebe grape variety was an attempt to have a grape variety which had Riesling-esque nobility but would ripen earlier. It was created by Dr Scheu in the 1916, when he crossed the Riesling grape variety with what is now believed to be a wild grape variety. While it has had its moments over the years in production, I would say, most thought of it as a secondary grape variety, used for bigger production. Part of it can be attributed to its seemingly lack of acidity & its real citrus like flavors. To date, for me, the finest Scheurebe’s are undoubtedly produced by Hans Wirsching of the Franconia region. Their estate vineyard sites are high in gypsum content. The 2012 was harvested at 88 degree oechsle & 5.9 total acidity. Wirsching Scheurebe has some “quietly” exotic fruit, along with the minerality….with a little more roundness, which would appeal to a wider spectrum of wine drinkers, without taking away from its wonderfully friendliness. Well worth checking out to say the least!
2012 CF Wines Muller Thurgau DRY
Next in the line-up is the CF Muller Thurgau, which is a wine crafted for DK Restaurants by Paul Furst of Franconia, Germany. The Muller Thurgau grape variety was created in 1882 by DR Muller…..by crossing Riesling with what is now believed to be the Madeleine Royale grape variety. This resulting grape variety was one of the other Riesling crosses which caught quite a few eyes for its potential. The finest is undoubtedly produced from Paul Furst, under his family’s label Rudolf Furst. Their estate has but ¾’s of a hectare (red sandstone soils) planted to this grape variety. One cannot help but be amazed at how ethereal & effortlessly light in weight it is, which is further enhanced by the innate minerality from the red sandstone the vines grow in.
Here is a DRY Riesling from one of Germany’s true iconic Masters—Helmut Donnhoff of the Nahe region. Sourced mostly from Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg (90%) the rest comes from his Niederhausen Hermannshöhle & Leistenberg vineyards—both steep,, rocky hillsides which has lots of porphyry rock soils. Wonderfully pure, captivating & remarkably food friendly!!!!
The Rothenberg Cru is a gentle, red slate soiled slope rising from the Rhein River, which produces some undeniably powerful, masculine Rieslings. The 2011 GG was harvested at 95 degrees oechsle & 5 total acidity. Despite the power & immense concentration, I marvel how unboastfully this wine comes across. In the 90’s these GG styled wines from this estate were MEGA-intense, tight fisted & unyielding. What a change!!!! Truly masterful. This estate is really in the “zone” right now.