Oct
27

Slightly Aged Standout French White Wines

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Because of the considerable improvements in plant selection, & innovation in grape growing & winemaking, there is today, more good wine available to the wine consumer than ever.  I should actually replace the word good in the previous sentence with the word correct.  Yes, lots of correct wine.

Over the years we search & explore the wine world to find those wines which, instead, have something very unique to say.  Something more than & beyond correct.  It certainly has something with the climate, the soils, the terroir.   That is what inspired this night’s tasting.

This is one of the most interesting tastings we have put together and has the makings of something truly special. Four standout white wines from four truly standout, world class winemakers. Each wine has some slight bottle age, which adds another dimension to explore. Opportunities like this don’t come around too often.

2013 Ostertag Sylvaner “Vieilles Vignes”–Cheryle and I clearly experienced how incredibly food friendly Alsatian Sylvaner can be on one of our trips to the region. We had lunch at a well known local brasserie and while many of the wines we were sampling were interesting on their own, the three Sylvaners we sampled were so remarkably more pliable and compatible with the regional foods we were relishing. This was quite the revelation, as previously I had thought Sylvaner to be an after thought grape and found many renditions previously tasted as forgettable. In the world of Sylvaner, one of the true highlights is from Andre Ostertag—55 year old vines grown in clay, granite and gravel—done with purity and considerable refinement and class. Here is that wine, six years in age. We love how sleek, elegant, well textured & refined this bottling can be.  Let’s see what age does.

2013 Brégeon “Gorges”–In the old days, Muscadet was quaffing white wine, a beverage typically used to wash down the food–in most cases raw oysters on the half shell. They went hand in hand. Furthermore, it really was hard to get fresh Muscadet here in Hawaii, so after a while it became more of an out of sight, out of mind kind of thing. Then we had our first taste of a Muscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine from Michel Brégeon, a game changing, “full blown terroir-ist” whose wines were truly like no other. I found his white wines spellbinding and so mesmerizing because of their profound purity. His chosen “spot” has gabbro soils—a blue-green metamorphic rock—which create a very different character in his wines, an attribute he continually looks to highlight through his finished wines. Along the way, he created his “Gorges” bottling—50 plus year vines—which he ages in underground glass lined cuvees on its fine lees for at least two years. While this certainly adds complexity and texture to the wines, it doesn’t take away from the terroir of his special piece of land. Here is the 2013…..six years in age.

2015 Thierry Germain Saumur “L’ Insolite”–Let this be an introduction to Thierry Germain, a New Age winemaking phenom taking the wine world by storm. He rethinks and does everything differently than most and is changing the game by example. This is his deluxe white cuvee—90 year old Chenin Blanc (grown on two parcels)—silex, clay, red limestone and sandstone, fermented in 1200 liter foudres for two months and then aged for an additional 12 months on its fine lees. Now, this is a white to check out because of its cerebral complexities while thankfully NOT being over done or heavy handed. This wine will really wow those trying his wine for the first time.

2012 A et P De Villaine Rully PREMIER CRU “Grésigny”–Founder Aubert de Villaine is one of the most prolific wine icons we have witnessed in our lifetime. I can’t readily think of too many others on his level. While he certainly has made quite the reputation and deserved reverence through his Domaine de la Romanée-Conti   wines, I would add to that this specific white wine is yet another of his crowning, big time achievements. While many of his Côte Chalonnaise grown wines under his A et P De Villaine label are really so pure, minerally, pretty & graceful, I was absolutely blown away with my first sip of this wine. BLOWN away. Yes, probably at first because it was so unexpected, but I have to say, this wine is memorable. It truly has something extra and I will remember it forever. Here is your chance to try it.

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