Feb
09

A trio of “Library” wines 01-15-15

By

Our first winetasting of 2015!  We begin the year with a trio of slightly aged French classics, produced in a style reminiscent of the old days.  It is a homage & a remembrance of the way wines used to tasted or aspired to be like……Yes, PRE-fruit bombs, PRE-Robert Parker.

Again, it is a friendly reminder of estate grown wines, where the owners are vested in their land & their wines from the ground to the bottle.

Where, they look for heritage/heirloom vines rather than scientifically propagated material.  Where they farm sustainable & therefore have a living vineyard.

Where, the winemaking is the way it used to be, much less scientific & much more about the way their ancestors taught them.

PLUS, because each wine has some bottle age, one can better experience what the vineyard wants to say.  Yes, this definitely a different kind of tasting……at least for these times.

Just, another opportunity to learn!

04211997 Catherine & Pierre Breton Bourgueil  “Les Perrieres”

Their best parcel—1 hecatare, a limestone hilltop of 50+ year old vines, organically & biodynamically farmed.  This is Bourgueil, NOT a Bordeaux or Californian wannabee & the Cabernet Franc therefore manifests itself very differently.  NO bigness or showmanship.  Wildly rustic character with refinement, etherealness & structure throughout.  We tend to think wines of an appellation, like Bourgueil, to all be representative of the appellation.  While that is a noble thought & while many producers certainly try, it just doesn’t end up that way.  Bourgueil is located in France’s Loire Valley & over the centuries, I am sure it was greatly influenced by the ocean at one time or another, as well, as the powerful Loire river.  These 2 factors had to affect the soils.  Hence, the sandier soils from the flat parcels would certainly result in a different Bourgueil than those grown on the rockier hillsides & their strong limestone influences.  This is a more masculine Bourgueil, with a wildly rustic, intriguing, provocative, dark nuances & lots of structure.  The 17 years of bottle age has done wonders in harmonizing the components.  AND, it has way more verve & vitality than the 1993, 94, 95 & 96 I have tasted recently.

2000 Chateau Gombaude Guillot  0420

Located on the Pomerol plateau of Right Bank Bordeaux.  Mostly Merlot with a dash of Cabernet Franc, grown in gravel/flint/clay soils (rich in iron), organically & biodynamically farmed.  The results—a classic reflection—rich, supple, yet with grace & finesse & a deep, gravelly minerality & structure.  This is done in style reminiscent of Bordeaux in the 70’s & before.

04222002 Domaine de Cherisey Blagny Premier Cru “Genellottes”

The village of Blagny lies between Meursault & Puligny Montrachet, slightly offset & higher in the hills.The higher elevation & the high percentages of marl in the soils create very different wines than those of the lower vineyards.  This Premier Cru parcel is only 1/3 of a hectare & was planted in 1934.  Domaine de Cherisey is a stalwart of classic wines of intensity, structure & integrity rather than showiness & fashion statements.  I am always amazed at how ethereal their Pinot is.  It reminded me how pretty, intricate, sheer & haunting a Cotes de Beaune Pinot Noir can be.  Wow!

Categories : General, Red, Wine, Wines Revisted

Comments are closed.

DK Restaurants