A Quartet of Gamay Noir 08-31-17


I have been an admitted Gamay Noir/Beaujolais fan for sooooo many years. How can one not love the deliciousness, the lightness of weight (viscosity) and heavenly gulpability of a slightly chilled Beaujolais? Well, here are a couple of other tidbits which might whet your appetite even more. They’ve genetically proven Gamay Noir is a descendent of Pinot Noir, which at least partially explains the deliciousness and incredible food compatability. Furthermore, the “Gang of Four” revolutionized and then took this grape variety and the region to a whole ‘nother level, following the principles of Jules Chauvet. So…on this night, we will try renditions from three Chauvet-ists AND then one mystery rendition, just to mix it up. To make things even more fun, we will serve them BLIND! 

2013 Robert-Denogent Beaujolais Villages “Cuvée Jules Chauvet”–wonderfully delicious, interesting, gulpable Beaujolais at its best from Jean Jacques Robert, the unofficial 5th wheel of the “Gang of Four”!  “The 1.14 hectare parcel (twenty and seventy year old vines) is leased from the niece of Jules Chauvet, Benedicte Chauvet, farmed with organic practices (but not certified). indigenous yeasts fermentation takes place in 228 L oak barrels. Carbonic maceration for fifteen days. No sulfur during harvest or vinification, minimal amount used at bottling. Aged sixteen months in seven year old barrels. Neither fined nor filtered”. 

2012 Foillard Fleurie–a Grand (versus “country” styled)-Cru Beaujolais, sourced from two lieu-dits: Grille-Midi and Champagne…45 to 50 year old vines.  “Of all the disciples of Jules Chauvet, Jean Foillard is the most likely to succeed in the practice of using very little SO2, without having his wines act capriciously at the slightest change in atmospheric pressure. His wines possess magnificent body, a unique viscosity and give aromas of a unique purity and grace”. 

2013 Charly Thévenet  Régnié “Grain et Granit”–this is a masculine, wild & VERY rustic, some would say feral, bordering raunchy (in a good, au naturale way) style of Cru Beaujolais from the son, Charly, of Jean Paul Thévenet from the “Gang of Four”.  Take a trip on the wild side!  The vines were planted in 1932 & 1946. ”biodynamic farming techniques in the vineyard, never adding synthetic herbicides, pesticides, or fungicides to the vines. He harvests late, with an aggressive sorting of the grapes, adds minimal doses of sulfur dioxide, ages the wine in four-year-old Burgundian barriques, and bottles his wines unfiltered”. 

2013 Thibault Liger-Belair Bourgogne “Les Deux Terres”–we slipped this wine (75% Gamay Noir & 25% Pinot Noir) into the tasting to show tasters how the addition of Pinot Noir AND the fact these vines grow in limestone soils can affect the resulting wine.  Yes, the wines had harder, more severe acidity & much harder, gripping tannins.  A surprise wine, just to mix things up some!

Categories : General, Red, Wine, Wine Thoughts

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