Archive for White
Santorini is an ancient, very picturesque Greek island, with remarkable blue waters & breathtaking, panoramic views.
This is also the home of one of Greece’s finest white wines, which is produced from the indigenous Assyrtiko grape variety.
The vines are planted in volcanic soils, which have very little clay, resulting in wines of a distinct minerality. Furthermore, these soils, interestingly, are inhospitable to the phylloxera louse, which is why there is still a remarkable amount of VERY old vines scattered throughout the wild countryside.
2009 Radikon Slatnik
One of the most radical, “on the edge” winemakers in the world is Stanko Radikon. Based out of Oslavia across the border from Italy’s Friuli region in the northwest, the Radikon wines are as eccenrtic as they get.
Here is what Michael Tulipan of the Organic Wine Journal noted on his blog–
Last Night at DK Steakhouse, we did yet another winetasting with the staff. being it is Summer time, we decided to show them some really interesting white wines from around the Mediterranean basin. Here were some of the standouts.
20% Grenache Blanc, 20% Grenache Gris, 20% Macabeo, 30%Vermentino, 10% Roussanne
2010 Movia Sauvignon
Movia wines are from Slovenia across the border from Friuli, Italy, & are some of the world’s most idiosyncratic, avant garde wines–extreme & certainly interesting.
The estate dates back to 1700′s, passing into the hands of the Kristančič family with a wedding in 1820. The estate extends over 22 hectares of land, about half of which lie on the Italian side of the Goriška Brda (Collio)”.
I have been fortunate to try some of their Ribolla based white wines from 1959 & 1969 (in 2007) & was amazed how they tasted. The latest of their wines we have experienced is this 2010 Sauvignon. It is really different…..and a most interesting drink.
The highly acclaimed Durell Vineyard was “an old cattle ranch at the base of the southwestern hills of Sonoma Valley, which stretches across 3 appellations–Sonoma Valley, Sonoma Coast & Carneros“. Ed Durell was the original owner (1979) but sold it to the Price family in 1998.
The vineyard is 30 miles away from the Pacific Ocean (west)…..10 miles from the northern reaches of San Francisco Bay (south)…..& to the north a 2400 mountain.
Geologically, the soils are rocky-clay-loam. Yes, this vineyard is well renown for its rocks….which many of its winemaking fans say creates a distinct stoniness in the resulting wine.
Because of our VINO restaurant, we are always searching for tasty, interesting, food friendly Mediterranean white wines which will work with our foods. Easier said than done. Here are 4 of our recent “finds”.
This is Vermentino grown in the rugged, unhospitable, remote terrain of Cap Corse on the isle of Corsica. Cap Corse, a largely isolated and thinly populated peninsula at the top of Corsica, sits like a finger pointing up at Genova, its former colonial ruler. The Genovese landed on the Cap in the 14th century and from there soon conquered the entire island. Little has changed at the domaine since it began, and it is still Michel who works the vines and makes the wines on his own as he has done for nearly six decades.
Yes, we had yet another BYOB dinner, where the participants brought some amazing older wines. Here are some of the highlights.
1999 Raveneau Chablis Premier Cru “Butteaux”
Without a doubt, Raveneau produces some of the purest, most transparent Chardonnays in the world. Because the wines see some oak, it really does take a few years of bottle age for the true terroir to once again really express itself, as this 1999 deftly displayed. Everything is now in totally harmony & I really loved the riveting, breathtakingly ethereal, sea shell-y minerality. My only other comment is drink it up….why wait. Life is just too short.
In case you didn’t know, my partner DK & I have 8 restaurants here in Hawaii. 5 of them feature contemporary Asian foods. Because of that, we went out & created THREE German white wines which would better work with our foods. One is dry…..one is medium dry & the other slightly sweet, fruity & lower in alcohol. Each one is from a different winegrowing region & features a different star winemaker. For me, it really is like a “dream” team.
Bruce & Barbara Neyers purchased their 40 acre ConnValley vineyard in 1988. The estate ranges from 400 feet to 1000 feet elevation & has several soil profiles. They first planted Merlot in the basalt (compacted volcanic ash) soils. They first planted cabernet in 1996. The high slope parcel was only recently dynamited & then also planted to Cabernet (where in 2005 their AME bottling was produced from). The vineyard is farmed organically & sustainably. Their other superstar vineyard source, is Il Novillero.
2010 Chardonnay ‘El Novillero’ –
The Haarts own roughly 7.5 hectares of vineyards in Piesport–4.5 in Goldtropfchen (soft, splintered gray/blue slate) , 1 hectare in Grafenberg (red slate) & .4 hectares in Domherr (deeper, finer soils from erosion). In addition they own .3 hectares in their monopole Kreuzwingert (big stones/clay soils, cooler microclimate, which is actually a parcel in the Goldtropfchen vineyard) & .3 hectares in Wintricher Ohligsberg (big stones/hard blue slate with quartz).