Archive for Red

Nov
29

A Tasting of Four 2007’s

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Again, one of our goals for 2014 is feature more & more good wines……those which others can be compared to.  This will help, tasters create a solid base to work from as their tasting adventures continue.  It is not as easy as one would think.  Here are 4 standouts from the superb 2007 vintage!   Yes, just another really good opportunity to learn!  Wines like this just don’t happen along!

00a32007 Chignard Fleurie

Back in the late 80’s, 9 artisan producers from Beaujolais caught my eye.  Please keep in mind, this was still a time when Beaujolais wine was not taken seriously.  I find it truly remarkable that despite the fact that many years have passed, & I have tasted & found so many new wines, from all parts of the world, my list of tasty, interesting, artisan Beaujolais has NOT changed!  This is one of those standouts…….from the Cru village of Fleurie.  Now 7 years old, the wine has evolved in the bottle & offers us new dimension, which has emerged with age.  A must to try!!!!

2007 Albino Rocca Barbaresco  “Brich Ronchi00a1

Albino Rocca has been one of our all time favorite Barbaresco producers.  We, in fact, visited him in 2007, walked his vineyard with him & tasted some of his “library” wines to get a better idea of how special his vineyard, Brich Ronchi is & how truly talented Angelo was as a winemaker.  It was one real eye opening visit, believe me.  We were subsequently very saddened to hear of his untimely passing.  We taste his benchmark 2007 on this night as a tribute to his incredible winemaking gift & his fierce passion for his craft.

00a22007 Meo Camuzet Fixin Premier Cru  “Clos du Chapitre

There is no doubt, Meo Camuzet is one of the iconic, contemporary producers of Burgundy’s modern era.  Here is your chance to taste one of his Premier Cru wines from the 2007 vintage.  One really needs to be patient with this wine.  It really does need some time.

2007 Reinhold Haart Riesling Kabinett  “ Piesporter Goldtropfchen”  00a4

When you see this panoramic, truly breathtaking vineyard you will be awe struck.  There are very few majestic, magnificent sites like this in the wine world.  Thankfully, the resulting wines are equally majestic & breathtaking.  There is a reason why Theo Haart was selected as “2007 Gault Millau Winemaker of the Year” & here is your chance to see why.

Categories : General, Red, Wine, Wines Revisted
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Oct
19

Rustic Reds from the Mediterranean Basin

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Again, one of our goals for 2014 is feature more & more good wines……those which others can be compared to.  This will help, tasters create a solid base to work from as their tasting adventures continue.  It is not as easy as one would think.  Here are 4 standouts from the Mediterranean basin. These are some of the most interesting & provocative rustic reds we have run across.  I think soulful is a really good word to use here.  If you want to better understand what we mean when we say soulful, then you should come & try these wines. Yes, just another really good opportunity to learn!  Wines like this just don’t happen along!

0a12009 Abbatucci Ajaccio  “Cuvee Faustine

Corsica’s star is rising on the American wine scene.  Sommeliers & wine professionals across the country are jumping onto the Corsican bandwagon on the fast track.  The rugged & very remote countryside produces some equally rugged, masculine red wines, of which the very finest are crafted from indigenous grape varieties.  Certainly leading the charge is Abbatucci.  Genius!!!! AND, a true champion of traditon & authenticity—wines & especially their environment..  Here is their Ajaccio (southwestern Corsica) which is produced from the Sciaccarellu & Niellucciu grape varieties, which are biodynamically farmed.  A must to try!!!!  0a5

2007 D’Aupilhac  “Le Carignan

The family has been this special tract in Montpeyroux down in southern France since the 1800’s, although the vineyard itself dates back to Roman times.  (The Romans were true experts on where to plant their vines!)  The neighbors across the way include Daumas Gassac & Grange des Peres (talk about an unreal neighborhood!!!).  The ancient Carignane vines were planted on severe terraced hillsides with all kinds of crazy, extreme soils, which explains the completely wild & rustic character of this standout French vanguard “country” red.  You never had something like this before!  0a3

2008 Guido Porro Barolo  “Santa Caterina

Here is our chance to show tasters a Barolo as it was made BEFORE roto fermenters & all of the other modern technology which is used to make modern/contemporary renditions.  Yes, this is a winery who is dedicated to traditional methods both in the vineyards & in the cellar.  The Caterina monopole vineyard is located at roughly 1200 feet elevation in the limestone heavy soils of Serralunga d’Alba.  The region is most noted for producing long lived, full bodied Barolo.  I therefore smile that the Porro version is much more elegant & refined, yet masculine, traditional & truly authentic in its core!!!!  0a2

2008 Tempier Bandol  “La Tourtine

Tempier has to be the most storybook wine of all.  Their wines & estate is iconic, steeped in tradition, history & regional culture.  It is hard for me to separate the wine from the family & its history.  There is really nothing else like Domaine Tempier.  La Tourtine usually is dominately Mourvedre, with some Grenache & Cinsault for finer details.  I find the resulting wine has wonderful structure, more refinement & needs bottle age to really strut its stuff.  Here is your chance to taste one of their treasures yourself & experience the magic yourself.  

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Oct
08

A Tasting of 3 Noble Red Grape Varieties

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When I was growing up in this industry, I was taught there was only 5 nobble grape varieties—Chardonnay & Riesling for whites AND Syrah, Cabernet/Merlot & Pinot Noir for reds.  That was the inspiration for this tasting.  3 “noble” reds….each epitomizing “classical” & each being a standout for their appellation.  Yes, these are benchmarks for others to be measured by….another set of stellar example of what “good” wines can be.  Just another really good opportunity to learn!

002010 Domaine Faury St Joseph

“Along the steep, narrow valley that traces the northern Rhône, the appellation of Saint-Joseph takes its place among the great wines of France, and Domaine Faury is one of the region’s most artisanal producers.  The steep slopes of the northern Rhône present a challenging terrain where farming is only feasible through terracing. On these terraced slopes, the Faurys’ vines take full advantage of the southern and southeastern sun exposure, benefitting from optimum ripening. A combination of the predominately granitic soil, partial de-stemming (in about 70% of the grapes), soft crushing of  the grapes with a pneumatic press, and temperature controlled fermentation offer a liveliness and freshness that one does not often find in wines from the northern Rhône. There’s a real attention to detail here, and nothing is done in haste. Every method used encourages the grape towards greatness with the ultimate respect for its fragility. Pigeage, the punching of the cap, is not carried out with tools, but gently by foot – not just poetic but also pragmatic. Unlike many other vignerons in the region, the Faurys have a strong aversion to new oak. Though the reds definitely see time in barrels, there is a rotation between new and old alike, along with a variety of sizes, ranging from the smaller barriques to the larger 600-liter demi-muids. Unfined and only lightly filtered before bottling,  these wines are loaded with classic flavors and show a remarkable rustic elegance”.    Classic, wonderfully captivating northern Rhone Valley Syrah–explosive, expressive Syrah perfume (of hillside grown….NOT just tooty fruity, varietally correct)….masculine, sultry, musky, floral, peppery, gamey….done without a heavy hand.  Gorgeous is a good word here.003

2000 Chateau Gombaude Guillot  “Pomerol

In the heart of the Pomerol plateau, on the Right Bank of Bordeaux, are the vineyards of Château Gombaude-Guillot   Though the estate is already certified organic, they are now pursuing the more stringent requirements of biodynamics.  As a recently discovered jewel in the crown of Bordeaux, Pomerol does not have an official classification system, yet the standards set for the vignerons here are high. The château’s vineyards are comprised of glacial gravel deposits and clay, and vineyard work is focused around soil health, low yields, and maximizing ripeness. Cover crops are planted between vineyard rows to encourage microbiological activity in the soil.   No chemical or synthetic herbicides or fungicides are used, and Claire, the current proprietor, is also careful not to eliminate vineyard pests entirely, citing their importance to the vineyard’s ecosystem. The vines average forty years of age and give naturally low yields. The wines of Gombaude-Guillot are classic reflections of Pomerol: rich and supple, with a deep gravel  mineral structure. This vin de garde has all of the grace and finesse for which the appellation is known, without any of the highbrow pretention or price.  The legendary 2000 is 85% Merlot & 15% Cabernet Franc aged in Allier oak (50% new).  This 2000, eventhough from a highly lauded, ripe vintage, is done more in a style I grew up with.  NO fruit bombs here!  Yes, this wine is certainly more about the soil than about grape variety, winemaking or oak use.  I really appreciate its finesse & more classical, sublime soil driven intricacies.

0012007 Domaine Maume Gevrey Chambertin “En Pallud”

Domaine Maume’s wines are deep, profound Pinot Noir experiences. They are wines of mystery – constantly changing and evolving, both in barrel and in bottle, like the Burgundies of the past. They are bottled from barrel by gravity without any pumping, fining or filtration. The secret to Maume’s success is his rigid  adherence to selection massale cuttings in his replanting of the family’s vineyards. By isolating vines with the healthiest grapes, they replant only the best. Most of their vines are quite old, too, averaging 50 years of age across all parcels. Maume does not believe in using new clones but is a strong believer in the diversity of old Pinot stock.  Maume’s “En Pallud” is a particularly well-suited lieu-dit just south of the village on the slope, below the premier cru Les Corbeaux and at the same elevation and exposure as the grand crus. The Maumes have a sizeable parcel here of 65 year-old vines, produced in 2007 with NO stems & only a tiny bit of new oak.  A great bottle from Maume takes you about as deep into the Burgundian soul as you can get.   I was saddened to hear that this domaine recently sold to a larger company.

Categories : Red, Wine
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Sep
29

A Taste of Corsican Wines

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The other night, our friend, Dr Chris, surprised us all by bringing in a selection of some interesting wines from the Isle of Corsica.  0a6As VINO regulars well know, I have a real hankering for Corsica, as I have wanted to visit there for well over 25 years, ever since I tasted my first glass of Luigi Clos Nicrosi. The wine had such interesting flavors, viscosity & unique character.  I am sad the wine is no longer  produced.  Well, the importer, Kermit Lynch, has uncovered several other interesting producers over the past few years & is now importing them into the U.S..  Thank you Chris for a wonderful tasting AND including the map, pictured to the right, which gave everyone a better picture of where each of the wines come from.

0a1Gioieeli2012 Domaine de Gioielli “Corse Coteaux du Cap Corse”

Michel Angeli is the man behind this winery, which is located in Cap Corse at the northern tip of the Island.  As the map will show you, this region actually looks like a finger pointing north.  The soil is mainly schist-clay & Michel had first planted Vermentinu & Codivarta & later Niellucciu (he got from Patrimonio) & Aleatico he got from Elba.  1952 was his first harvest.  This particular bottling is typically around 50% Niellucciu, 25% each of Aleatico & Merlot, which he ferments in 100% stainless steel.  Yes, it is rustic in smell & taste, is quite masculine in character, but flows on the palate surprisingly well from beginning to end.  Merlot makes a surprising appearance, given Michel’s apprecaition of native grape varieties, but as expected, it really seems to round out the edges in this case.  (By the way, we have also purchased some of his rare Rappu wine, which is Aleatico, dried out on straw mats for 10 days, pressed, fermented in concrete (a touch of residual sugar, 16% alcohol) & then aged in old oak barrels for 7 years.canarelli0a7

2011 Canarelli “Corse Figari”

Canarelli comes from the southern tip of Corsica.  The vineyards lie inland from the sea, along a plateau, on granitic-alluvial soils rich in minerals & is both organically & biodynamically farmed.  The climate is greatly moderated by the winds gusting off the Gulf of Figari.  The 2011 Rouge is 80% Niellucciu, 15% Syrah & 5% Sciaccarellu, 100% destemmed & aged in large foudres for 14 to 18 months.  One could readily detect the Syrah in the nose & taste.  Eventhough people say this is a rustic style, I think it would be an easier wean into Corsican red wines for the Californian palate than any of the other reds we tasted on this night.  (On another note, they also have indigenous grape varieties such as Carcahjolu Nera, Biancu Gentile, Paga Debiti, Barbarosa & Minustellu planted & featured in some of their other bottlings).

0a2Leccia2011 Yves Leccia Patrimono “E Croce”

Yves left his family domaine to create his own, which specialized in a single terroir–“E Croce”  E Croce faces the Gulf of St Florent & features a chalky soil, which lies upon a thick bedrock of pure schist.  This is essentially another 1 man show.  This bottling is 90% Niellucciu & 10% Grenache, which was fermented in stainless steel & aged for 12 months before release.  One could detect on first smell & taste there is some Grenache in the blend.  (We tasted the wines with NO knowledge of the soils the vines grew in nor the grape varieties used).  Leccia’s wines are more refined, elegant & quite classy.  They are really a pleasure to drink.   0a50a40a3arena

                                                 Antoine Arena Patrimonio

Arena is certainly one of the most revered producers of the Island. His vineyards are located in the Patrimonio appellation.  Within Patrimonio he organically farms several parcels.  Carco (2 hectares, planted in 1987) is mainly Niellucciu in chalky-clay-limestone soils.  Morta Maio (2 hectares, planted in 2001) on clay-limestone soils.  Of the 3 tasted on this night, I much preferred the 2010 Carco, which had a complete-ness, balance & soul.  This wine surprised me, as I usually find Arena wines too much for my palate.  Yes, it was rustic, perhaps too much so for many tasters, but it really had something to say, in a VERY unique way.

marquilianiMarquiliani “Vin de Corse” Rose

Although, this wine was NOT tasted on this night (mainly because we have not been able to get for the past couple of vintages), I just have to mention it here, because it is so damn good!  I remember Kermit Lynch once saying–“Drinking her rose is like drinking a cloud.  there is an absolute weightlessness to it.  Nothing is left on the palate but perfume“.  Marquiliani is located on the island’s eastern coat (Costa Serena)….in the village of Aghione, high altitude, & therefore, cooler nights.  the terraced vineyards are a mix of schist, granite & gravel with silt.  The rose is typically 90% Sciaccarellu & 10% Syrah, direct pressed, fermented in stainless steel with NO malolactic.

 

 

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Sep
25

Rustic Red Wines from California 09-11-14

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  • Our friend, Bruce “Big Red” Liebert, has been patiently waiting for us to do another Big Red tasting. Yes, limestone & minerality can be nice,
  • pretty & ethereal, BUT can we just get some wines with substance & guts please? Here is that tasting….masculine, rustic red wines from California–
  • standouts (& 1 added by a participant just for fun).  Each are grown in marine soils (sand, limestone or siliceous clay). One can get BIG, extracted, full flavored red wines without heaviness…..
  • which will shed a different perspective for this evening’s tasters. Yes, just another really good opportunity to learn!
  • 0z32009 Freakshow Petite Sirah “Heretic”
  • A big, BLACK (as shoe polish), brooding, masculine beast from the winemaking genius
  • of Christian Tietje & some interesting Paso Robles grapes.  0a0
  • 2006 R Wines “Amazed”
  • The grapes come from vines which, today, are 140 years old….so back in 2006, they were younger….only 132 years old–
  • Carignane & Mourvedre. The soils is has lots of sand to it, which is why these vines are also own rooted.
  • “Amazed” was crafted by superstar Australian winemaker Chris Ringland. I wonder if any winemaker has garnered more
  • 99 & 100 point wines (according to the Wine Advocate) than Ringland. His are decadent, lavish, deeply flavored red wines.
  • This is an interesting, unique combination of character, vinosity & viscosity. Definitely one of a kind..
  • 0z12010 Jonata “Todos”
  • Jonata is another standout estate vineyard from the Central Coast of California which is “changing the game”. Owned & developed by Stan Kroenke (who also owns Screaming Eagle in the Napa Valley), the 586 estate is actually located in the Ballard Canyon, down in the Santa Barbara appellation. There are 84 acres planted on rolling hills, mostly comprised of careaga sandstone. We were fortunate to see & walk the vineyard just before they released their first wine (2004 vintage) with winemaker Matt Dees. We just knew they would hit it…..AND boy have they hit it! The 2010 Todos is a wine of the vineyard….& is therefore a blend of many grapes–78% Syrah, 8% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Viognier, 1% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petite Verdot, 1% Sauvignon Blanc & 1% Semillon, aged in French oak, 50% new.  0z2
  • 2011 Saxum “Booker Vineyard”
  • Here is your chance to taste a Saxum wine! Yes, it is one of the hardest red wines to get out of California.
  • It is a lucky thing, we were at the door, before they bottled or released their first wine. Interestingly, Cheryle,
  • Mike & I tasted this 2011, just before it was to be bottled, along with their other bottlings. For me, his 2011’s are
  • some of the very best I’ve had from them. I love how gorgeous & long they are. The Booker Vineyard seemed
  • the darkest, the most mysterious/provocative that day, maybe because the blend is 67% Syrah & 33% Mourvedre.

 

Categories : Red, Wine
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Sep
12

A Trio of Old World Syrah 09-11-14

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Syrah is undoubtedly one of the true “noble” grape varieties of the world & has been for a long, long time.  Unfortunately, Syrah is not in fashion right now & I am not sure exactly why.  I, in fact, wish I had a dollar for every time a wine professional/wine buyer/server has told me in the past 5 years, how Syrah based wines, (especially New World versions) do not sell so well for them.  I would be rich!

I am saddened to hear of this plight.

Well grown & crafted Syrah deserves a niche in the wine world.  Not only does this grape variety have world class potential, it also can fill the big puka between Pinot Noir & Cabernet Sauvignon in terms of weight, drama & profoundness.  The very best can have intricacy, pedigree, UN-heaviness & texture a notch or 2 away from Pinot Noir, with the depth, masculinity & regality a notch or 2 away from Cabernet Sauvignon.  Syrah can be an ideal “tweener”.

Here are 3 examples which reminded me of this thought.

0aa11Cote Rotie2001 Michel & Stephane Ogier Cote Rotie

The Ogier family had been farming their vineyards & selling off to their grapes for many years (more recently to prominent producers such as Chapoutier & Guigal), until 1987 when they decided to grow & produce their own wine under their own label.  At that time, they owned roughly 6 acres in Cote Rotie.  Son, Stephane, started working alongside his father in 1998 & took over the domaine in 2000.  Where previously, the winemaking was much more traditional with NO stems & NO new oak, Stephane changed his style to 100% Syrah, 80% de-stalked, 3 to 4 week stainless steel fermentation & 18 month barrel aging (30% new).  In addition to their Cote Rotie, Ogier also began producing special bottlings–Embruns (2001) from purchased fruit & 50% new barrels; Lancement “Terroir de Blonde” & Belle Helene (a cask selection from their Cote Rozier parcel–30 months in 100% new oak).  This is a producer of northern Rhone Valley Syrah well worth checking out.  This 2001 Cote Rotie (13 years old), for example, was elegant, classy, refined, masculine, majestic with a surprising velvety texture.  It had a gamey, rustic core with garrigue character & a sandalwood edge.  I can imagine all kinds of meats & rustic meat preparations which one can have a field day with!

1995 Noel Verset Cornas  0aa16

Noel Verset, for me, was one of the iconic stalwarths of the tiny Cornas appellation, who not only helped define an appellation, but shed a very different light on what the Syrah grape variety could be.  His vines were old, his highly revered Sabarottes parcel yielded grapes like no other on the hillside & his winemaking was very traditional.  I have to say, the resulting wines were truly one of a kind.  They had a wild-ness–green & black peppercorns, true andouille sausage, raw meat, lots of red fruit, crushed rocks, garrigue  with lots of herbal notes.  His was a small winery, perhaps 800 case production in any given year.  Rumors started circulating around the 2000 vintage, that he was retiring.  (He even mentioned his thoughts on retirement on a visit I made in 1991).  Subsequent vintages would pop up every now & then–I saw a smidgeon fo the 2003 & a tiny bit of 2006….& then quiet.  It was the end of an era.  Yes, there are other Cornas (Thierry Allemand & August Clape) which deftly carry on the appellation on the world class stage, BUT there was only 1 Noel Verset.  I was completely enthralled with the 1995.  It was quintessential Verset Cornas–wildly rustic, rock, peppercorns, wild herbs, with the rank smells of real French andouille sausage.  It really sang out & was a thrill to savor.

AAA1Hermitage rocksHermitage white stones2000 Chave Hermitage

For many, the Chave Hermitage is the pinnacle of northern Rhone Syrah.  The family has been growing grapes & making wines on Hermitage hill since 1481.  The vines today are organically & biodynamically farmed.  “Every year, we start from zero in assembling the wine.”  The core & backbone comes from the Bessards parcel, their largest parcel, located furthest west.  Tasting out of barrel once with Gerard Chave, I found the Bessards to have a smokiness, a strong minerality  with a certain elegance, velvety middle & lots of tannins in the finish.  His parcels have very old vines.  I found Le Meal was also smokey, but had distinct floral (violets, jasmine), ripe, jammy black  cherry, green olive, spice & pepper with more of a middle, a riper, higher glycerine mouthfeel.  Rocoules was fresher fruit, yet not as showy, with licorice, smoke, cassis, green notes & much more tannic.  Peleat–more acid/structure with green olive, smoke & even an apple nuance.  Diognieres had ripe cherries, jammy, bordering cassis like qualities with a funky/earthy edge.  Baume–licorice, cherry, more austere, structured & refinement.  L’Ermite–smokey, earthy, barnyard funk, green peppercrons, jammy–the most outgoing right out of the gates.  The Chaves are master blenders, using all of the pieces to create a complete Hermitage–or as I used to say about the old Barolo masters—create an orchestra sound rather than just the horn section.  Chave is the best at that!  and HAS BEEN SINCE 1481!

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Sep
02

Rustic Reds 08-20-14

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Some interesting Mediterranean RED wines were opened & shared by the gang on this night.  They also made sense for the kinds of foods we do in VINO.

02e1989 CHAPOUTIER Hermitage “Sizeranne”

Chapoutier owns 79 acres of prized parcels on Hermitage hill.  That is a sizable chunk, to say the least.  The core of their Sizeranne bottling comes from Les Bessards & its predominately granitic soils.  There is also some Le Meal (old alluvial terraces with gravel & some calcareous) & some Les Greffieux (silt with shingles at the foot of the hill).  The grapes are de-stemmed, fermented in concrete & aged in casks for 12 to 14 months.  This 1989 was wonderfully aged–a peach/nectarine aroma with red & black fruit, dried flowers/hawthorne, forest floor, leather, peppercorns, camphor, sandalwood….very refined, classy & sophisticated.  The various components were very much in harmony & this proved to be a fabulous drink.

1989 RENE ROSTAING Cote Rotie “Cote Blonde”  02k

I first visited Rostaing, I believe in 1991.  Having visited his uncle Marius Gentaz just prior, I was really taken back at first with Rene’s VERY modern looking winery, especially when one compares this to the cellars of Gentaz Dervieux, Clape, Chave, Noel Verset I had visited earlier.  In addition to the building itself, I was also quite surprised to see so many NEW barriques in use down in the barrel room.  Interestingly, I did taste this very wine on that visit.  My notes–“smokey (ash tray like), tarry, PEPPERY, black fruit, cassis, blackberry, tremendous concentration, high glycerine, lots of wood tannins, some caramel in the finish“.  Since I did put any stars by the wine, I am not sure that I didn’t like it that much back then.  Well, the wine has changed considerably since then.  Everything is well integrated, though one could still smell & taste the considerable amount of  new oak used in its production.  It was, however, stylish, well polished & very well balanced.  Typically Rostaing blends in fruit (95% Syrah & 5% Viognier) from 13 different lieu dits (schist, mica & silex soils)…partial de-stemming,..& aged in 228 liter barrels with a big chunk being new (in 1989).  I went back to see Rene a couple of years ago.  Because it was in the middle of harvest , we did not get to chat so much this go around & tasted but a few wines.  I like his wines much better now.  I did notice he has a roto fermentor now & also uses demi-muids in addition to the 228l barriques.

02f1988 CERETTO Barolo “Zonchera”

The Ceretto brothers sure shook the bushes in their neck of the woods, especially keen at marketing.  When I first visited them in the early 80’s, their newly built winery looked like a modern Californian.  The staple of their Nebbiolo was their Zonchera Barolo bottling (produced from a core of Zonchetta of La Morra, just under Brunate, which they discontinued with the 2010 vintage) & their Asili Barbaresco (which they discontinued with the 2011).  The 1988 Zonchera was still alive in the core, just lean & refined.  It is a pretty wine, but I would have probably liked several years younger, when it still had more flesh to the bones.  OR, maybe it just got dwarfed by all of the other standout wines tasted on this night.  I am still very thankful at having tasted it.

1999 FORADORI Granato  02d

Now, here was a very interesting wine!  Elisabetta Foradori is the master of the Teroldego grape variety.  Her biodynamically farmed vineyards (of massale selections)  are located in the Campo Retaliano valley.  Some say, Teroldego is genetically related to the Syrah grape variety.  I am not sure if that is true, but it certainly can make for complex, deeply flavored & colored, compelling wines, that’s for sure.  Granato is all estate fruit & produced only in certain vintages & generally aged in OLD oak for 12 to 15 months.  The 1999 was still VERY youthful at its core–sweet, black fruit, olives, herbs, earth, even chocolate & spice, while being well focused, hearty, masculine yet so cerebral, graceful & well balanced.   This sure was a pleasure to experience.

02c1996 ALDO CONTERNO Barolo

Aldo Conterno was certainly regarded as one of Barolo’s iconic figures.  He left his family’s domaine, Giacomo Conterno & founded his own in 1969 in Monforte d’Alba.  His top holdings–Vigna Cicala, Romirasco & Colonello–are all top notch parcels within the Bussia Cru.  His Granbussia bottling is a Riserva blend of all 3 parcels, produced only in great vintages which features much structure & depth of fruit.  Grandbussia is released at least 7 years afterwards.  Unlike his devout “traditionalist” brother Giovanni at Giacomo Conterno, Aldo adapted techniques from both the new as well as the old in pursuit of making better wine.  He reduced, for example, the time on the skins, and vehemently believed in long maturation in large oak.  This 1996 was stellar–classy, stylish, majestic & sophisticated.  The perfume showed classic Barolo/Nebbiolo character, as did the palate, in a very refined, well balanced style.  Yes, it can go on aging for a long time, but I loved how well it showed on this night with lots of vigor to its core.

Categories : Red, Wine, Wines Revisted
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3 epic, rustic red wines from the 2007 vintage (7 yars old)—2 from Italy & 1 from Spain.  Each should really ring your bell.  It is VERY important for us at VINO to continually feature top caliber wines from the Mediterranean basin.  Yes, it is our passion….BUT….it makes sense with the kind of foods Chef Keith creates.  How does the lay person sift through all of the labels & marketing jargon to better determine what to buy?  Here are 3.  Yes, just another opportunity to learn!

01c2007 Ciacci Picolomini Brunello di Montalcino  “Pianrosso”

There are many top caliber Brunello di Montalcino.  Ciacci Picolomini, however, standout because of their desire to make the wines in the vineyard & then showcase its purity in the finished wine. Although many producers may say that in their spiel, Ciacci Picolomini truly delivers it in the wine. Pianrosso is their top site—stony slopes near the Orcia river in the south-southwest corner of Montalcino. This majestic, 100% Brunello is fermented in stainless & concrete & aged for 36 months in 20 to 62 hectoliter Slavonian oak.

2007 Ca’ Bianca Barolo  01b

This is a very masculine, provocative style of Barolo from Alice Bel Colle in the Alto Monferrato area of Piemonte. Theirs is a contiguous 96 acres of hillside, east to southeast facing at 950 feet elevation.  This wine was aged for 24 months in large Slavonian casks & old French oak barrels.

01a2007 Clos Pissarra  “La Vinyeta”

Clos Pissarra is a new standout wine project from Priorat, Spain, under the direction of Mater Sommelier Emanuel Komeiji.  They excel at small batches of superstar wines, grown in the VERY steep, non-terraced hillsides of slate with virtually no top soil.  La Vinyeta is their top bottling, 2.5 acres of 125 year old Carignane & Grenache.  The yield in 2007 was a miniscule 1 ton, for the 2 ½ acres!!!!!!—2/5 of a ton per acre……50 cases worth..

Categories : Red, Wine, Wines Revisted
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Jul
02

Red Zinfandel 07-01-14

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042009 Scherrer  “Old & Mature Vines” 

The Scherrer Vineyard is located on a bench in Alexander Valley, above the Silver Oak planting.  The first vines were planted in the 1912. The “Mature” vines were planted in the early 70’s..  The best way, I can describe this SENSATIONAL bottling, is to say, this is a superb old vine Zin crafted by a Pinot master—elegant, suave, well textured, seamless & so impeccably balanced.

2010 Robert Biale “Monte Rosso03

The legendary Monte Rosso vineyard was planted in the 1880’s on a steep, rocky hillside on the Sonoma side of the Mayacamas Mountains.  This wine is 99.8% Burgundian oak, 25% of which is new.  If you haven’t checked out Robert Biale before, here is your chance…..& with their best bottling.

0000002007 Carol Shelton “KarmaZin

Carol Shelton has garnered so many awards & acclaimed for her single vineyard Zins over the years, it really is hard to keep up with it all.  Still, she is remarkably & thankfully as humble & “down to earth” as can be.  We love her Zins because they exude a ‘sense of place”, have vinosity & have wonderful texture & balance.  I believe this is the last vintage she used the 105 year old vine fruit from Rue Vineyard on revered Wood Road for this bottling.  The 2007 spent 18 months in oak, a combination of French, American & Hungarian to “frame” her art piece.

2011 Linne Calodo “Outsider”  01

This is a masterful Zinfandel blend (78% Zin, 18% Syrah & 4% Mourvedre) grown in the limestone/siliceous clay hillsides of Paso Robles from winemaking superstar Matt Trevisan.  Matt has several really interesting Zin parcels to work with–Heaton, , Whalebone Hill, Poppy & Cushman being the most notable.  Typically Whalebone Hill forms the core of the “Outsider” bottling, blended with some lower brix/higher acid Syrah to keep tension in the wine & lowering the over alcohol content.  He is without a doubt at the top of his game right now & this wine will show you first hand why.

 022009 Carlisle “Carlisle Vineyard

Carlisle is undoubtedly the most highly acclaimed Zin maestro in the game today as supported by all of the high scores & press he deservedly garners year after year.  This organically farmed vineyard was planted in the 1927 in the eastern bench of the Santa Rosa flood plain of the Russian River Valley.  They have so far identified 50 different grape varieties in the vineyard–a TRUE heirloom vineyard!  Truly, one of the standouts today!

 

Categories : General, Red, Wine, Wine Thoughts
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Jun
22

Rustic Mediterranean Reds

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Here are 4 tasty, very interesting red wines from southern France.

2010 Vinci  “Rafalot”  00005

I have become a real sucker for Old Vine Carignane, especially when it is grown & produced in the hands of an artist like this.  Yes, this is a relatively new domaine, but the vines of this 1 hectare parcel are over 100 years old & now really showcases the clay-limestone soils the vines grow in.  It really is about the hands on farming & the

hands off winemaking.  BUT you really need to know what you are doing! 

00002

2009 Roquete Chateauneuf-du-Pape

The Brunier brothers of Vieux Telegraphe bought this domaine a few years ago.  This domaine produces a very different Chateauneuf-du-Pape, eventhough the Brunier brothers oversee it.  It is really because the vineyards are so different than Vieux Telegraphe & its highly revered La Crau parcel.  One vineyard, for instance has more sand, which gives the wines more finesse.  Another has galets, for the stony character of top notch Chateauneuf.  Yet another has clay on a bedrock of limestone.  So, eventhough the grape mix is similar to Telegraphe, the resulting wine is VERY different.  Kind of like singing a song in a different voice. 

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2010 Gros Nore Bandol  00003

80% Mourvedre, 18 months in foudre, this is bold, masculine Bandol with character, depth, complexity, soul AND finesse in a very unique & different way than its more famous neighbor Domaine Tempier, a few stops down the road.

000042011 Faury Syrah  “L’Art Zelle

This is classic Old World Syrah in all its glory.  For those tasters asking what a bench mark French Syrah smells & tastes like, here is the one for you.  850 feet in elevation & only 150 feet away from the officially designated Cote Rotie hillsides.  WOW!

Categories : General, Red, Wine
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