Archive for Wine

Sep
12

A Trio of Old World Syrah 09-11-14

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Syrah is undoubtedly one of the true “noble” grape varieties of the world & has been for a long, long time.  Unfortunately, Syrah is not in fashion right now & I am not sure exactly why.  I, in fact, wish I had a dollar for every time a wine professional/wine buyer/server has told me in the past 5 years, how Syrah based wines, (especially New World versions) do not sell so well for them.  I would be rich!

I am saddened to hear of this plight.

Well grown & crafted Syrah deserves a niche in the wine world.  Not only does this grape variety have world class potential, it also can fill the big puka between Pinot Noir & Cabernet Sauvignon in terms of weight, drama & profoundness.  The very best can have intricacy, pedigree, UN-heaviness & texture a notch or 2 away from Pinot Noir, with the depth, masculinity & regality a notch or 2 away from Cabernet Sauvignon.  Syrah can be an ideal “tweener”.

Here are 3 examples which reminded me of this thought.

0aa11Cote Rotie2001 Michel & Stephane Ogier Cote Rotie

The Ogier family had been farming their vineyards & selling off to their grapes for many years (more recently to prominent producers such as Chapoutier & Guigal), until 1987 when they decided to grow & produce their own wine under their own label.  At that time, they owned roughly 6 acres in Cote Rotie.  Son, Stephane, started working alongside his father in 1998 & took over the domaine in 2000.  Where previously, the winemaking was much more traditional with NO stems & NO new oak, Stephane changed his style to 100% Syrah, 80% de-stalked, 3 to 4 week stainless steel fermentation & 18 month barrel aging (30% new).  In addition to their Cote Rotie, Ogier also began producing special bottlings–Embruns (2001) from purchased fruit & 50% new barrels; Lancement “Terroir de Blonde” & Belle Helene (a cask selection from their Cote Rozier parcel–30 months in 100% new oak).  This is a producer of northern Rhone Valley Syrah well worth checking out.  This 2001 Cote Rotie (13 years old), for example, was elegant, classy, refined, masculine, majestic with a surprising velvety texture.  It had a gamey, rustic core with garrigue character & a sandalwood edge.  I can imagine all kinds of meats & rustic meat preparations which one can have a field day with!

1995 Noel Verset Cornas  0aa16

Noel Verset, for me, was one of the iconic stalwarths of the tiny Cornas appellation, who not only helped define an appellation, but shed a very different light on what the Syrah grape variety could be.  His vines were old, his highly revered Sabarottes parcel yielded grapes like no other on the hillside & his winemaking was very traditional.  I have to say, the resulting wines were truly one of a kind.  They had a wild-ness–green & black peppercorns, true andouille sausage, raw meat, lots of red fruit, crushed rocks, garrigue  with lots of herbal notes.  His was a small winery, perhaps 800 case production in any given year.  Rumors started circulating around the 2000 vintage, that he was retiring.  (He even mentioned his thoughts on retirement on a visit I made in 1991).  Subsequent vintages would pop up every now & then–I saw a smidgeon fo the 2003 & a tiny bit of 2006….& then quiet.  It was the end of an era.  Yes, there are other Cornas (Thierry Allemand & August Clape) which deftly carry on the appellation on the world class stage, BUT there was only 1 Noel Verset.  I was completely enthralled with the 1995.  It was quintessential Verset Cornas–wildly rustic, rock, peppercorns, wild herbs, with the rank smells of real French andouille sausage.  It really sang out & was a thrill to savor.

AAA1Hermitage rocksHermitage white stones2000 Chave Hermitage

For many, the Chave Hermitage is the pinnacle of northern Rhone Syrah.  The family has been growing grapes & making wines on Hermitage hill since 1481.  The vines today are organically & biodynamically farmed.  “Every year, we start from zero in assembling the wine.”  The core & backbone comes from the Bessards parcel, their largest parcel, located furthest west.  Tasting out of barrel once with Gerard Chave, I found the Bessards to have a smokiness, a strong minerality  with a certain elegance, velvety middle & lots of tannins in the finish.  His parcels have very old vines.  I found Le Meal was also smokey, but had distinct floral (violets, jasmine), ripe, jammy black  cherry, green olive, spice & pepper with more of a middle, a riper, higher glycerine mouthfeel.  Rocoules was fresher fruit, yet not as showy, with licorice, smoke, cassis, green notes & much more tannic.  Peleat–more acid/structure with green olive, smoke & even an apple nuance.  Diognieres had ripe cherries, jammy, bordering cassis like qualities with a funky/earthy edge.  Baume–licorice, cherry, more austere, structured & refinement.  L’Ermite–smokey, earthy, barnyard funk, green peppercrons, jammy–the most outgoing right out of the gates.  The Chaves are master blenders, using all of the pieces to create a complete Hermitage–or as I used to say about the old Barolo masters—create an orchestra sound rather than just the horn section.  Chave is the best at that!  and HAS BEEN SINCE 1481!

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CHAPTER 24 0cc4

I first “officially” met owner Mark Tarlov when he was about to launch his Evening Land project. I was referred to him by winemaker Sashi Moorman. Mark has since left ELV behind, taking with him considerable experience & insight into how to do things better, & has now launched Chapter 24, his latest Oregon based wine project. He hired Oregon local, Mike Etzel Jr. (his father of Beaux Freres fame) & then convinced Burgundy superstar Louis Michel Ligier Belair to consult. Theirs is a completely different perspective into producing top quality Oregon Pinot Noir, one I believe will change the game there. For one, Louis Michel wanted to have MANY different clones/grape selections AND from many different sites to work with. As times goes on, they will then weed out some (already….those from Dundee Hills for instance) , while continually adding more & more interesting sites. The goal is to then, I am sure, also plant their own estate vineyard(s) as well. In addition, Louis Michel, having learned his craft from the iconic Henri Jayer, looks for true physiological maturity in the grapes & then by their long, cool, oxygen rich, 35 day fermentations produce better & better wines which are at the same time balanced (& more naturally). The resulting wines they believe should be first & foremost delicious BUT with intricacy, complexity, layering & intriguing character as one swirls the glass. Yes, we believe this is a game changing project.

2012 Pinot Noir, Two Messengers–The grapes come from 22 different vineyards, in keeping with Louis Michel’s thirst for bio-diversity. 35 day fermentation, NO stems inclusion, NO punch downs, 25% new oak. The wine is so pretty, enticing, elegant, refined & classy…AND delicious!

2012 Pinot Noir, Chapter 24 “Flood”–Produced from SIX vineyards with sedimentary soil. 35 day, whole berry fermentation, NO stems inclusion, NO punch downs, 33% new oak. Lovely with a BIG textural change without any sense of heaviness. 13.3 alcohol naturally.

2012 Pinot Noir, Chapter 24 “Fire”–Produced from SIX vineyards with volcanic (inorganic) soil. 35 day, whole berry fermentation, NO stems inclusion, NO punch downs, 33% new oak. Higher toned, more perfume, much more stony….again delicious, with much more seductive texture.

2012 Pinot Noir, Chapter 24 “The Last Chapter”–Produced in 2012 from 4 vineyards, the core being from the top of the hill of Shea vineyard & another with 40 year old vines. 35 day, whole berry fermentation, NO stems inclusion, NO punch downs, 75% new oak. Epitomizes elegance, refinement & sophistication, BUT with surprising deliciousness, alluring charm without being forward or too front loaded. It is a very sensual style of Pinot, which what Pinot should be, right?

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Sep
07

Pink Wines 09-06-14

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Boy, is there a lot to say about rose to really better understand what’s the dealio.  Good roses can be quite a revelation, not necessarily in terms of drama or profound-ness, but more about how they can add a whole ‘nother dimension to pairing with foods.  The challenge is finding the good ones.

In the Old Days, winemakers looked to improve their RED wines by bleeding off some juice & thereby maximizing the remaining juice to skin contact ratio.  With the bled off juice, the winemakers then sought to make something decent.   While this may make for better (?) red wines, it often made for mediocre PINK wines…..unless one was looking for a wine to just gulp & wash the food down with.

More recently, we thankfully have witnessed a fast growing number of light & fruity roses, where the grapes are harvested at lower sugar levels (& therefore less drama & lower potential alcohol levels), direct pressed in stainless steel tanks at cool temperatures.  These delightfully delicious, fruit driven roses are ideal for warm weather sipping with or without food.

Now, we are seeing the next generation of this style of pink wines—those grown in marine soils, which create minerality in the finished wines, in addition to being light & fruity.  This minerality creates ethereal-ness/interestingness in the wines, in addition to adding refreshingness & accentuating the wine’s vitality & liveliness.  From my point of view, these wines are also much more diverse at the dinner & lunch table AND with a wider range of foods.

We are now also seeing more & more masculine styled roses rising in availability & popularity. These versions are produced from more hearty, rustic red grape varieties, often grown in more rugged terrain & harvested at modest sugar levels, direct pressed & fermented at cool temperatures, BUT are just more masculine, hearty with more structure, drama, depth & hutzpah.  More reminiscent of Rhone Valley Tavel….which in my mind is more similar in profile to a lighter red wine of the old days.  One could readily pair these kind of roses to lighter meats AND even red meats.

Think about—a Thanksgiving feast with all of the fixings….& then there is the cranberry.  This has been a big revelation, which I think we will see more & more of, once the public acclimates to the bigger price tags (which are highly deserved in the finest examples).

So….that is the inspirations for this tasting.  A chance to taste 4 really good examples of what rose can be!!!

Yes, just another opportunity to learn!

00002012 Eric Chevalier Grolleau Rose

Every winegrowing seems to have a real shining star who emerges from the crowd & vanguards the region into the modern era.  The very best of them capitalize on modern techniques both in the vineyard & the winery to produce better wines than their neighbors, WITHOUT compromising a core of traditions, such as using indigenous grape varieties & never losing sight of purity of terroir & unique-ness.  In the Nantais region, the western most outreach of France’s Loire Valley, that man is Eric Chevalier.  “Éric sustainably farms twenty-five hectares of vines, producing wines of great character and finesse. The Nantais is a maritime climate, and the vineyards are not far from the Atlantic Ocean. Consequently, there is an interesting variety of sedimentary,  igneous, and metamorphic rocks, as this area once was ocean floor”.  Eric has a little over half a hectare of a grape variety, named Grolleau (20 year old vines), from which he produces a superb, interesting, ethereal PINK wine.  The wine is wild yeast fermented & aged on its lees in subterranean, glass lined cuvees for more texture & complexity.  Here is that wine!  Remarkably light, ethereal, salty, pure, precise AND most imporatant delicious!

2012 Maxime Francois Laurent Rose “Il Fait Tres Soif”  0003

Domaine Gramenon & its winemaker Maxime Francois Laurent is certainly that standout young phenom leading the charge in France’s southern Rhone Valley.  His style of wine is a distinct move away from the bigger, burly, brooding wines the southern Rhone has been known for, for at least since the 1930’s.  More importantly he is part of that vanguard looking to be uber-sustainable & back to basics both in the vineyard & the winery, which is why he & his wines have garnered an almost “cult” like following.  Yes, these are really hard wines to get….& for good reason.  They do not merely champion organic farming, but they incorporate the concept of sustainability into their daily lives by growing their own food and raising their own animals. Though Michèle and Maxime continue to test the confines of the appellation, the cellars are unsurprisingly old-fashioned. The Laurents use gravity-fed cuves and age their wines in oak demi-muids and foudres. That they take such gutsy risks as bottling old-vine fruit with so little sulfur, without fining or filtration, only demonstrates the lengths they will go to in order to highlight the freshness, purity, and intoxicating aromas.  of their small, rare production.  In addition to his work at his family domaine, Gramenon, Maxime also produces a small of wine under his own namesake label, which are even harder to get than those of Gramenon.  Here is his rose—1/3 each of Syrah, Grenache & Cinsault (25 year old vines) grown in clay limestone soils, direct pressed, wild yeast fermented with NO malolactic.  Another example of his thirst of purity, sense of place deliciousness & authenticity.  This wine definitely smelled & tasted of the soil.  NO tooty fruitiness here!  BUT, still brimming with deliciousness.

00012012 Maxime Magnon Corbieres Rose “Metisse

The Maxime Magnon wines are some of the hardest for us to get.  Magnon is part of one of the most revolutionary wine movements in France should give him a justifiable swagger to his step.  He was fortunate to have purchased some prime parcels of old vines from abandoned plots and rents his cellar—a garagiste if ever there was one. He farms nine parcels over eleven hectares, with steep vineyards that reach high altitudes, and manages it all on his own. Maxime is part of the new wave of passionate viticulteurs who cultivate their vines with the utmost respect for nature and the soil.  He’s certified organic, but also incorporates biodynamic practices into his vineyard management. Most of Maxime’s vineyard land is comprised of schist and limestone subsoils in the sub-appellation Hautes Corbières, bordering Fitou to the South. This is incredibly tough terrain to farm in, as there is virtually no top-soil, just pure rock and garrigue.  His one rose is 30% each Cinsault & Grenache Noir & 20% each of Carignane & Grenache Blanc (80 years-average age).  The wine is wild yeast fermented (the Cinsault separately) in concrete & aged for 6 months in 6 to 9 year old barrels.  Yes, 1 case made its way to the Islands.  I think most tasters were taken back by the darker color.  It has a very unusual color, quite striking in fact.  This wine also has a quite exotic nose–stony, flinty, even peppery with strawberry in the finish.  I would say, this is a masculine, delicious rose….one I will remember for a long time.

 2013 Yves Leccia Rose  “Ile de Beaute”  0002

Yes, Corsican wines are really happening across the country with sommeliers. And, Corsica has been on my wine bucket list to visit for at least 20 years.  I have been warned however not to travel there alone.  Seems like the remote parts of the island is rugged & inhospitable in more ways than just the countryside itself.  Where Bordeaux, Burgundy & Champagne are regions producing wines of grandeur, class & sophistication, I would say Corsican wines tend to be more hearty, masculine in nature with lots of Old World character & spirit.  That’s not to say, they aren’t good…..just intriguingly different.  In France,  Leccia’s have often been referred to as the “Rolls-Royce” of Corsican wines, a reputation earned after nearly 30 years of making consistently elegant and sophisticated wines.  Raised in a small village in the heart of  Patrimonio, Yves worked alongside his father in the vines and cellar at the earliest age he could. The Leccias have been making wine from some of the finest terroirs of Patrimonio for countless generations, Yves decided to branch off on his own in 2004 and focus on the single terroir he felt was the top in Patrimonio. This terroir, “E Croce,” sits on a thin chalk soil above a thick bedrock of pure schist, facing the gulf of St. Florent.   This rose is 60% Niellucciu & 40% Grenache, direct pressed, wild yeast fermented & full of true Corsican character.   Wow! Unlike the previous 3 vintages I had tried in the past, the 2013 had elegance, refinement & ethereal minerality, which really caught me by surprise.  Kudos.

 

Categories : Rose, Wine, Wine Thoughts
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The Bien Nacido Vineyard is located midway in the Santa Maria Valley.

The vineyard traces its roots back to the year 1837 when a Spanish land grant of some two square leagues was made to Tomas Olivera by Juan Bautista Alvarado, then Gobernador of Alta California. This grant covered nearly 9,000 acres ranging upward to the San Rafael Mountains from the Santa Maria Mesa, which bordered the Sisquoc and Cuyama Rivers. The ranch was generously watered by Tepusquet Creek, so called by the Chumash Indians to whom it meant “fishing for trout.” Thomas Olivera sold Rancho Tepusquet in 1855 to his son-in-law Don Juan Pacifico Ontiveros and daughter Martina. Don Juan Pacifico Ontiveros started construction on an adobe in 1857 and moved to the ranch the following year. He and his wife raised horses, cattle, sheep, several grain crops, and grapes for the production of wine“.

The current owners, Miller family, purchased this tract in 1969 & soon thereafter renamed the vineyard “Bien Nacido”.

Today, Bien Nacido covers roughly 800 acres of vines & is still quite breathtaking in scope.  There is a myriad of designated blocks & soils, each “farmed to order” to the leaser.  A good portion is sandy loam with tiny bits of seashells & sees morning fog & is cooled by afternoon sea breezes.

What is most tantalizing to winemakers is that several of the blocks still have the vines, which were planted in 1973 AND on their own roots.  Of course, there is a pecking order to who gets what grapes.  First in line for the prime parcels, includes those who worked with the grapes since nearly the beginning such as Jim Clendenen of Au Bon Climat, Adam Tolmach of Ojai & Bob Lindquist of Qupe.  We are also seeing a transition, as some of the Old Guard who helped bring this vineyard to the forefront, such as Chris Whitcraft & Bryan Babcock, no longer work with the fruit.  In their place, we today see a whole slew of young bucks such as Justin Willett of Tyler & Gavin Chanin of Chanin wines just to name 2.

Just the other night, two of our really good wine friends, Gail & Vern Isono, put together a BYOB tasting themed “Bien Nacido Vineyard wines” at our VINO restaurant.  It really turned out to be a VERY memorable tasting, to say the least, as the participants brought an interesting selection of true standouts from this iconic vineyard to share with the gang.

0bb110bb31995 Au Bon Climat Chardonnay “La Bouge”

There is no doubt that Jim Clendenen has over the years crafted some of the most compelling Bien Nacido Vineyard wines.  I also would say, he was one of the biggest believers/advocates who helped bring the Santa Barbara appellation onto the world stage of quality wines.  This specific bottling, which was previous named simply “Bien nacido Vineyard” was his signature wine.  The grapes came from “K” Block (Chardonnay planted in 1973 on its own roots in sandy loam soils). I have always been amazed at how Au Bon Climat’s Bien Nacido” Chardonnay always showcased real physiological ripeness, innate compelxities & class with remarkably lightness, 13 plus alcohol, well integrated oak (despite being barrel fermented & with roughly 25% or so new oak) AND ageworthiness.  Here is the living proof!!!!!!!  The wine was all about mineral out of the gates…high toned, highly refined with fresh peach skin & layers of marzipan, which acvhnged to more of a creamsicle note with more air.  This 1995 was so pure, seamless & complete with fabulous texture & balance (2 of Clendenen’s signature winemaking traits) with a long, citrusy finish.  AND, it was so surprisingly youthful still!  Crazy good!

1998 Au Bon Climat Chardonnay “Nuits-Blanches–Why Not

Though Au Bon Climat’s more ethereal, highly refined, higher acid, lower alcohol Chardonnays had quite a following with the wine professionals, the wines were only lukewarmly received by the major media.  BIG, oaky, lavish Chardonnays were in style & the emerging new age of wine drinkers readily jumped on the band wagon.  Where there was once a waiting list of customers, times were changing.  With the 1997 vintage, Clendenen decided to add another Chardonnay to his portfolio, one which tasters later would playfully say was more of a homage to the newer, IN style of wine.  The “White Knight” was also produced from Bien Nacido’s “K” Block, but was picked a week or 2 later AND aged in a considerable amount of new oak.  The bottle was more fancy & heavy in weight with a newly designed “look”, with the designation “Nuits-Blanches”…& his statement–“Why?”…front & center.  This wine, of course, was ABC’s highest scoring wine in quite some time.  Depressing?????  Maybe for an artist, but Clendenen followed that wave of success in 1998 with his third “Nuits-Blanches”, this time with his simple statement–“Why Not“.  Even though this Chardonnay comes from the same “K” Block, the resulting wineis so VERY different!  The wine is more stony than minerally, with marzipan, orange blossom, fennel, creamsicle, apricot pit nuances.  Dry, still quite oaky up front & quite youthful & resoundingly structured in its core with a long, grandiose finish.  0bb40bb

2006 Foxen Pinot Noir “Block 8-Bien Nacido Vineyard”

2006 Whitcraft Pinot Noir “this is the “n” my only friend the “n””

The Foxen gang are really good people who helped bring Santa Barbara along wine wise.  Bill Wathen studied under the legendary Pinot maestro, Dick Graff, at Chalone & along with his partner Dick Dore founded Foxen in the 1980’s.  Their wine, unfortunately, did not show so well on this night.  We’re not sure if it was shipping, storage or what.  The 2006 Whitcraft was also in a dumb stage….but showed MUCH better than the Foxen & was so much more vinous, balanced  & complete.  As the night wore on, one could readily tell this wine has the stuffing & all the right fixings….just needs time.  Chris Whitcraft, for me, was one of the “larger than life”, REAL characters of the wine industry.  His wines were like him, in that one never knew what to expect, not only with each vintage, but when opening any of his wines at any given time.  In short, they were all idiosyncractic & I have found over the years, either people really liked them or they really hated them.  Chris was a protege/friend to the iconic Burt Williams, the namesake, founding winemaker of the old Williams & Selyem.   He defined his winemaking as artisan & done without electricity.  From early on, his 3 prized parcels were “Q” & “N” Blocks from the Bien Nacido Vineyard….as well as the Hirsch Vineyard of the true Sonoma Coast.  When he hit it, he hit a home run.  In 2006, Chris produced a terrific “N” Block Pinot Noir.  He felt, however, after tasting through the barrels with Burt, there was one barrel, which had to be singled out & bottled on its own.  This is that wine!!!  ONE barrel.  Sadly, either the 2006 or perhaps 2007 vintage , Whitcraft decided to say aloha to Bien Nacido.  It really was the end of an era.  On this night, the wine had a surinam cherry kind of pungency, with much earth, spice–rustic, totaly vinous, great core, mineral, showy….much more showy than his normal “N” Block bottlings (Martini selection–planted in 1973 & own rooted).  I remembered how proud Chris was of this wine, when I first tasted it with him.  I too agreed this was one of his finest, which is saying alot, considering all of the giants he made during his career.  I was sad to hear of Chris’ passing earlier this year.  He & his wines were like no other.  Aloha, my friend.  RIP.

0bb12001 Ojai Pinot Noir “Bien Nacido Vineyard”

Adam Tolmach is another one of Santa Barbara’s (if not all of California) REAL superstar winemakers!  His wines are THAT GOOD!  He was once co-founding winemaker at Au Bon Climat, but eventually packed up his bags to found his own winery, which he named Ojai.  His wines thankfully also have Old World sensibility.   Where his Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs, & especially his Syrahs used to get HUGE scores from the major publications, especially Robert Parker, one could see over the years his decision to trim the oak usage appealed to the scorers less.  How crazy is that?  For me these same wines are better than ever.  In fact, let me just say, when touring Californian wine country, our last visit is typically Ojai.  It really is hard to follow his wines with any others.  His top Bien Nacido Pinot parcel is “N” Block (planted in 1973, on its own roots).  Unfortunately, on this night, the 2001’s nose was completely & utterly shutdown….despite us trying to agressively decant it back & forth for 25 minutes.  On the palate, the wine, however,  showed hard mineral, immense structure, HUGE vinosity, intensity with great texture & flow…..just so damned tight.  I think this will be quite a wine, though, once it comes out of hibernation.

1991 Whitcraft Pinot Noir “Bien Nacido Vineyard”0bb60bb10

1993 Whitcraft Pinot Noir “Bien Nacido Vineyard”

Chris Whitcraft excelled at producing real provocative, HUGELY vinous, masculine, savory, rustic Pinot Noir from both the “Q” & “N” blocks of the Bien Nacido Vineyard.  He was lucky to be there in the early days & was therefore able to garner getting the Old Vine fruit from each, which came from the vines planted in 1973 on its own roots.  Sometime in the 90’s, since the rows between the vines were so wide, they went through & planted another row in between (referred to as interplantings).  In the case of “Q” Block, I believe it was clone 667.  & for “N” Block I believe they planted clone 115.  So, every now & then, when Chris felt some of the juice did not reflect a “Q” or “N” Block designation, he would produce a “Bien Nacido Vineyard” designated bottling.  AND, in some of the cases, he would also add some interplanting grapes in as well, just to add dimension.  In any case, the Bien Nacido designated wines were VERY different from either Q or N Block & spoke of the vineyard rather than either parcel.  On this night, the 1991 showed more of that pungent, rustic surinam cherry fruit, a peach tang in the middle with sandalwood, sap, funk/shoe polish/leather.  It definitely had more vinosity than the 1993 poured along side.  The 1993, on the other hand, seemed much more Californian.  It was lighter in color, much more perfumed–light funk, peach/apricot middle, roasted coffee grinds, a more ethereal middle with a more fruity finish.  We were all so surprised how youth these 2 wines were.

0bb91993 Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir “La Bauge Au-dessus”

What an intriguing contrast to the any of the other wines, that’s for sure!  Much more elegant, feminine, refined….so seamless, impeccably balanced & so wonderfully textured.  The fruit is sweet, ripe & surprisingly forward, but I believe that is part of the intention of this bottling.  I also loved the vinosity & surprising vigor of this 19 year old wine!!!

1996 Whitcraft Pinot Noir “N Block”  0bb50bb8

1997 Whitcraft Pinot Noir “N Block”

I have been an avid fan of Chris Whitcraft’s Pinot Noirs for many years.  I would be hard pressed to think of too many Pinots in the 90’s which had as much character & vinosity (old vine-ness) than his Q & N Block bottlings. ( Certainly nothing tooty fruity there!)  Where his Hirsch single vineyard designated Pinots (1994 being the first) were much more masculine, sultry, darker, intriguing & harder edged, his Q & N were so much more vinous, rounder & more open.  Chris worked with a Pommard selection in Q Block (planted in 1973 & own rooted).  The resulting wine was typically the most open upon release.  His N Block was Martini selection & was typically more earthy, reticent & shy upon release.    The 1996 had a strong roasted coffee grinds/cocoa quality, with a very earthy tone.  It was totally vinous on the palate, seamless, complete & long. The 1997, on the other hand, had a stemmy, spiced edge with a more ethereal middle & a long finish.  It was much more refined & elegant than the 1996.  Interestingly, I found this to be opposite when they were released.  Both are still surprisingly youthful.

0bb72000 Jomani Pinot Noir “Q Block”

In 2000, my best friend, Nunzio Alioto, & I bought some Q Block grapes at a charity auction. ( He & I in those days typically bought small amounts of grapes from some storybook vineyards like Pisoni, Savoy, Mt Carmel & Eaglepoint Ranch & asked some friends to make it for us.)  So, for the 2000, we asked Chris Whitcraft to make this wine.  I believe it was 1 barrel’s worth.  On this night, this seemed to be grandest of the night!  Or, maybe because it was biggest, a beast with lots of hutzpah, chocolate, coffee & oak nuances.  It also had, by far, the most vigor in the core.  I found it way more interesting than a 2000 Q Block & a 2000 Hirsch I recently had tasted.   Sorry, my last bottle.  Thank you Chris!!!!!

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Sep
03

New Releases 8-30-14

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MANTRA

0cc2These 2 wines are produced, by Mike Kuimelis, exclusively from their 4 estate vineyards. As you well know, we love working with family’s who own & work their vineyards.  2 of the vineyards are in the Dry Creek appellation (1 hillside & 1 hilltop) & the other 2 are located in the Alexander Valley appellation (1 hillside & 1 hilltop). This family definitely understands that true wine quality is created in the vineyard.  We selected Mantra partly because of their terrific vineyards….AND mostly because of the unpretentious BUT passionate dedication of Mike Kuimelis to produce unique wines full of character.  NO fruit bombs here!!!!!! No exaggerated, showy, flamboyant, fashion trending wines. His are elegant, suave, PURE, polished & classy. The wines are wild yeast fermented & then inoculated to finish.

2012 Zinfandel “Old Vine Reserve”–70 year old vines—94% Zinfandel & 6% Petite Sirah (field blend) from reddish stony Aken soils. 3 separate picks…16 months in French/Hungarian/American oak (25% new).

2012 Cabernet Sauvignon “Alexander Valley”–100% Cabernet Sauvignon (25 to 28 year old vines)—reddish, stony Aken soils (Cloverdale/Geyserville (hillsides)…Aged for 20 months in French/Hungarian/American oak (25% new).

MOBIUS  0cc1

Mobius is a project dedicated to offer more value oriented wines, still crafted by Mike Kuimelis of Mantra. While Mike still sources grapes for this label in an effort to keep the quality high, he is channeling more & more of his estate grown Zin, Merlot & Cabernet to this program.  The wines are still stylistically more elegant, suave, well textured & polished.

2012 Zinfandel “Alexander Valley-Sonoma County”–100% Zinfandel from their Geyserville estate vineyard within the Alexander Valley appellation. This wine is aged for 16 months in French/Hungarian/American oak barrels.

2012 Pinot Noir “Central Coast”–The grapes come from westside Paso Robles (Eric Russell). NO stems, whole berry, open top fermenters & aged for 16 months in French & Hungarian barrels (25% new)

“Skirt Chaser” non-vintage (120 cases)–Mike Kuimelis’s latest “look”—roughly equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon (2007—Dry Creek), Merlot (2009 Alexander Valley); Petite Sirah (2009 Alexander Valley) & Zinfandel (2012 Alexander Valley)…Aged in French/Hungarian/American barrels for 16 to 20 months (30% new)

2011 Cabernet Sauvignon “California”–A much more value driven Cabernet produced from grapes—Estate/Paso Robles & Mendocino. 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% each—Merlot, Cabernet Franc & Petite Verdot….Aged for 16 months in American & Hungarian oak (20% new).

2012 Cabernet Sauvignon “Sonoma County”–80% Dry Creek & 20% Cloverdale (mainly Cabernet Sauvignon with some Merlot, aged for 18 months in French/Hungarian/American oak (20% new)

0ccDREW

Jason Drew is essentially a 1 man show located up in Elk, California. When I first met him, he was working at a Napa Valley winery. He later worked at Babcock during their heyday, where, before he left,  he was associate winemaker. He started his own winery, based in Buellton featuring some interesting Santa Barbara-n grapes. He & his wife Molly packed up & moved further North where they purchased their own place up in the Mendocino Coastal Ridge. Drew has been selected at least twice as “Winery of the Year”. His wines are lovely, delicious & impeccably well balanced.  You can certainly win a lot of friends with these wines.

2013 Pinot Gris “Filligreen”–This vineyard is located on a rocky river bench, northeast facing in mid Andersona Valley. It is biodynamically farmed. Being so narrow, it actually is a cool, wind tunnel, which is ideal for this grape variety.  The wine is fermented in 50% stainless & 50% old wood….50% malolactic, 5 months on the lees.

2012 Pinot Noir “Fogeater”–Fogeater is a Boontling term for the early settlers. The 2012 is 35% Balo Vineyard (organically farmed), 35% Atkin; 20% Moring Dew (Burt Williams’ vineyard) & 15% Wentzell….a combination of 777, 667. Old Rochioli, Pommard & La Tache.  30% whole cluster, 11 months in French oak (15% new), 29% each 1 year & 2 year old barrels & 45% old oak.

2012 Syrah “Perli”-Perli is 2200 feet up in the Mendocino Coastal Ridge, 10 miles from the ocean. co-fermented with 3% Viognier….40% whole cluster, 15% stems…11 months in 3 year old oak. We think there is a HUGE opportunity to fill a vast void that lies between Pinot & Cabernet, which wines like this can aptly & profoundly fill.

184MAISON L’ENVOYE

Maison L’Envoyé, ‘The House of the Messenger,’ tirelessly explores the finest sites dedicated to the cultivation of Pinot Noir. We strive to craft wines that not only jubilantly sing of their origins,  but are also delicious in their own right. With winemaking footprints in both Burgundy and Willamette Valley, Maison L’Envoyé champions many unsung growers who have farmed their vineyards over multiple decades and generations. Led by former Evening Land founder, Mark Tarlov, Maison L’Envoyé brings together a colorful cast of Burgundian winemakers, Oregon vignerons and Napa Valley based wine importer, Old Bridge Cellars. In Burgundy our winemaking team is based in the town of Beaune, drawing from several sites including the Premier Cru, Savigny Les Beaune ‘Les Marconnets.’ In Oregon’s Willamette Valley, we source a selection of Pinot Noir grown in both volcanic and sedimentary based soils, from multiple AVAs including Yamhill-Carlton, Ribbon Ridge and Eola-Amity Hills”. Maison L’Envoye from my point of view strives to produce wines of purity, transparency, elegance, refinement, deliciousness AND probably most importantly, offer GREAT VALUE.

2012 Maison L’Envoye Pinot Noir “Attache” (Oregon)–Produced from vines grown in 75% volcanic soil & 25% sedimentary soil. So, I asked Mark, what is the difference between this wine & the Two Messengers Pinot Noir? He said simply….”just try the 2 wines”. Attache has much more aromatics/perfume, richer with more extract yet more elevated character & certainly more focused.  35 day, whole berry fermentation, NO stems inclusion, NO punch downs, 33% new oak.   More, more, more!!!!

2012 Maison L’Envoye Morgon “Cote du Py”–A VERY delicious, more “country” styled Cru Beaujolais (VERY different from the more supped up, SUPER Beaujolais renditions from Foillard, Diochon & Chignard).  These are 40 year old vines from the Cru Morgon & its most revered “Cote du Py”, in fact located at the top of the hill, with its pebbly, schist soils with manganese & iron.  The wine is wild yeast fermented, whole berry then aged for 12 months in 3 to 4 year barrels & bottled unfiltered & unfined. GREAT VALUE. Wonderfully food friendly!!.

2011 Maison L’Envoye Bourgogne Rouge–Produced from fruit–7 villages, the core coming from the Hautes Cotes de Nuits &   15% Premier Cru—“Les Marconnets” from Savigny-Les-Beaune (clones/selections—877, 114, 113 & 119).  The winemaking is overseen by Olivier Merlin. –wild yeast fermented in stainless steel (long & cool) & then aged for 12 months in old oak. A very pretty, refined, finesse oriented Burgundian Pinot at a fabulous price.

2011 Maison L’Envoye Bourgogne Blanc–A classical Maconnais Chardonnay—pure, light, fresh, minerally & food friendly. The 2011 is a blend of grapes from the villages of Vire, Prissey & Fuisse & is direct pressed, wild yeast fermented & aged for 12 to 14 months in old oak barrels. Another GREAT VALUE!

2011 Maison L’Envoye Savigny-les-Beaune Premier Cru “Les Marconnets”–Savigny-lès-Beaune, a humble commune off the beaten path in the northern reaches of the Côte de Beaune, is divided by the river Rhoin.  On the southern side, closest to Beaune, the slope faces northeast; this is where the premier cru climat of Les Marconnets sits. The soil here is sandy and pebbly, rich in iron, and ideal for the aged vines which call it home. The wine is wild yeast fermented in old oak barrels & aged for 12 months. This wine displays the dichotomy of Savigny with an elegant fruit profile contrasted by savory notes. Petite, red berries share the palate with forest floor and roasted meats, sewn together by a taut mineral core and fine oak tannins. In a word: silky”.

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Sep
02

Rustic Reds 08-20-14

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Some interesting Mediterranean RED wines were opened & shared by the gang on this night.  They also made sense for the kinds of foods we do in VINO.

02e1989 CHAPOUTIER Hermitage “Sizeranne”

Chapoutier owns 79 acres of prized parcels on Hermitage hill.  That is a sizable chunk, to say the least.  The core of their Sizeranne bottling comes from Les Bessards & its predominately granitic soils.  There is also some Le Meal (old alluvial terraces with gravel & some calcareous) & some Les Greffieux (silt with shingles at the foot of the hill).  The grapes are de-stemmed, fermented in concrete & aged in casks for 12 to 14 months.  This 1989 was wonderfully aged–a peach/nectarine aroma with red & black fruit, dried flowers/hawthorne, forest floor, leather, peppercorns, camphor, sandalwood….very refined, classy & sophisticated.  The various components were very much in harmony & this proved to be a fabulous drink.

1989 RENE ROSTAING Cote Rotie “Cote Blonde”  02k

I first visited Rostaing, I believe in 1991.  Having visited his uncle Marius Gentaz just prior, I was really taken back at first with Rene’s VERY modern looking winery, especially when one compares this to the cellars of Gentaz Dervieux, Clape, Chave, Noel Verset I had visited earlier.  In addition to the building itself, I was also quite surprised to see so many NEW barriques in use down in the barrel room.  Interestingly, I did taste this very wine on that visit.  My notes–“smokey (ash tray like), tarry, PEPPERY, black fruit, cassis, blackberry, tremendous concentration, high glycerine, lots of wood tannins, some caramel in the finish“.  Since I did put any stars by the wine, I am not sure that I liked it that much back then.  Well, the wine changed considerably since then.  Everything is well integrated, though one could still smell & taste the considerable amount of  new oak used in its production.  It was, however, stylish, well polished & very well balanced.  Typically Rostaing blends in fruit (95% Syrah & 5% Viognier) from 13 different lieu dits (schist, mica & silex soils)…partial de-stemming,..& aged in 228 liter barrels with a big chunk being new (in 1989).  I went back to see Rene a couple of years ago.  Because it was in the middle of harvest , we did not get to chat so much this go around & tasted but a few wines.  I like his wines much better now.  I did notice he has a roto fermentor now & also uses demi-muids in addition to the 228l barriques.

02f1988 CERETTO Barolo “Zonchera”

The Ceretto brothers sure shook the bushes in their neck of the woods, especially keen at marketing.  When I first visited them in the early 80’s, their newly built winery looked like a modern Californian.  The staple of their Nebbiolo was their Zonchera Barolo bottling (produced from a core of Zonchetta of La Morra, just under Brunate, which they discontinued with the 2010 vintage) & their Asili Barbaresco (which they discontinued with the 2011).  The 1988 Zonchera was still alive in the core, just lean & refined.  It is a pretty wine, but I would have probably liked several years younger, when it still had more flesh to the bones.  OR, maybe it just got dwarfed by all of the other standout wines tasted on this night.  I am still very thankful at having tasted it.

1999 FORADORI Granato  02d

Now, here was a very interesting wine!  Elisabetta Foradori is the master of the Teroldego grape variety.  Her biodynamically farmed vineyards (of massale selections)  are located in the Campo Retaliano valley.  Some say, Teroldego is genetically related to the Syrah grape variety.  I am not sure if that is true, but it certainly can make for complex, deeply flavored & colored, compelling wines, that’s for sure.  Granato is all esate fruit & produced only in certain vintages & generally aged in OLD oak for 12 to 15 months.  The 1999 was still VERY youthful at its core–sweet, black fruit, olives, herbs, earth, even chocolate & spice, while being well focused, hearty, masculine yet so cerebral, graceful & well balanced.   This sure was a pleasure to experience.

02c1996 ALDO CONTERNO Barolo

Aldo Conterno was certainly regarded as one of Barolo’s iconic figures.  He left his family’s domaine, Giacomo Conterno & founded his own in 1969 in Monforte d’Alba.  His top holdings–Vigna Cicala, Romirasco & Colonello–are all top notch parcels within the Bussia Cru.  His Granbussia bottling is a Riserva blend of all 3 parcels, produced only in great vintages which features much structure & depth of fruit.  Grandbussia is released at least 7 years afterwards.  Unlike his devout “traditionalist” brother Giovanni at Giacomo Conterno, Aldo adapted techniques from both the new as well as the old in pursuit of making better wine.  He reduced, for example, the time on the skins, and vehemently believed in long maturation in large oak.  This 1996 was stellar–classy, stylish, majestic & sophisticated.  The perfume showed classic Barolo/Nebbiolo character, as did the palate, in a very refined, well balanced style.  Yes, it can go on aging for a long time, but I loved how well it showed on this night with lots of vigor to its core.

Categories : Red, Wine, Wines Revisted
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Aug
28

A Trio of Sweeter Wine 08-21-14

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Sweet wine is an interesting topic.

How does one get such ripeness & sweetness in the wines?

One answer is to simply leave the grapes on the vine longer or until they start to raisin.  This is a very tricky line to walk.  As the sugar rises, the acidity lowers.  If you are therefore not careful, you could end up with a cloying or flabby wine.  A simpler way is to stop the fermentation early, so the finished wine has residual sugar.  Another way, would be to dry your grapes, such as they do in Italy, on straw mats.  Yet, another way, is to encourage botrytis cinerea to infect your grapes.  This beneficial mould will essentially get rid of water & thereby concentrate the extract & acids in the grapes.  Or, one could do a combination of the above.  The point being, there is more than one way.

These 3 wines feature very different & interesting approaches & it is a reminder why the resulting wines are so VERY different, especially with age.

Furthermore, I personally don’t talk about sweet wines too much, mainly because the wines are really about super ripeness & sometimes botrytis, especially in their youth & the terroir therefore often gets masked.   It is true, however, after considerable age & the sweetness & the ripe fruitiness has a chance to resolve, the terroir can make an appearance again. Such is the case with this trio of wines.

02a1983 CHATEAU de FARGUES

Chateau de Fargues has been owned by the Lur Saluces family since 1472.  They are the same family which also owned Chateau d”Yquem, which they sold off in 1999.  This estate has 15 hectares of vines planted on a clay-gravel plateau, roughly 4 kilometers southeast of d”Yquem.  Typically their blend is at least 80% Semillon with Sauvignon Blanc AND the yields are often lower than d’Yquem’s.  The grapes are harvested through many vineyard passes (sometimes as many as 12) & are aged for at least 3 years in once used barrels from d’Yquem.  This 1983 had lots of dried fruit nuances, honey, beeswax, stoniness, apricot, earthiness & a real waxy feel to it.  One could see that this wine also had started making the transition from sweetness to a more tactile quality on the palate, which is also part of the resolvement.  I felt, however, with the drying of the fruit, the alcohol & a bitterness poked out in the finish, which makes me better understand why many love to pair these kinds of wines with richer, fattier foods such as bleu cheese, pates & even foie gras.  Thank you Michael for sharing this treat!

1975 MOULIN TOUCHAIS Anjou  02g

Now, this is a VERY unique & interesting wine, which is remarkably still under the radar screen for most wine aficionados.  The appellation is Anjou in France’s Loire Valley & is actually located in the heart of the Coteaux du Layon, which is famous for their late harvest Chenin Blanc based whites.  This 145 acre estate has been in the Touchais family for 8 generations (1787).  My first experience was a 1947, which I tasted in the mid 80’s.  I was blown away how unique & interesting this wine was.  These wines are reputed to live as long as 100 years & the 1947 tasted so surprisingly youthful.  I suspected this 1975 would therefore be an infant, but was still anxious to try it.  The soils are schist, clay & limestone.  The most curious aspect of the Moulin Touchais wines is how they are produced.  (It wasn’t that long ago, no one was allowed in the cellar, & people therefore questioned the authenticity of its longevity).  They say, 20% of the grapes are harvested only 80 days after flowering, when the grapes are essentially unripe with high acid levels.  The other 80% is then harvested 120 days after flowering (dehydrating on the vine).  (Botrytis is rare in this neck of the woods, which at least partially explains the nose, taste & color of the resulting wines).   The wine is fermented in stainless & aged at least 10 years before release.  The 1975 has a surprising freshness with baked apple, quince, mint, apricot, honey nuances.  It was amazingly precise, fine, refined, intrguingly minerally with balanced acidity.  Because of the bottle age, the wine’s once apparent sweetness had changed considerably to a much more tactile sensation.  It was fabulous!!!!  AND so interesting!  Thank you Brent, for sharing.

02b1989 FREIHERR HEYL ZU HERRNSHEIM  Beerenauslese “Niersteiner Oelberg”

The records show this estate has been around since 1561.  Most of their vineyard holdings have red slate soils–Nierstein (Hipping, Pettenthal & their monopole Brudersberg) & a little in Nackenheim Rothenberg.  This wine was the most gracious of the 3 “stickies” tasted tonight..  NO hard edges whatsoever AND had the most finesse.  I had always previously thought Oelberg was a grosslagen (large collective site), but on a recent map, I noticed it was a single vineyard, past Hipping, down the hillside some.  This wine was rich, lush with tropical fruit character, some botrytis & a distinct stoniness.   One could also see that the once apparent sweetness is changing to a more tactile creaminess on the palate.

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Aug
24

New Releases 08-16-14

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0b1Palmina

As you may know, Palmina is a wine project dedicated to Italian grape varieties grown & produced in the Santa Barbara appellation by Chrystal & Steve Clifton. The 2012’s are a truly stunning set of new releases…..actually better than most Italians we taste. The quantum leap in quality is because their vines are maturing AND the wines are now wild yeast fermented & aged for a short time in OLD oak, as opposed to only stainless steel as we saw in the past. The minerality & terroir is still clear & transparent, but with more round-ness & texture.

Arneis “Honea Vineyard” 2012–From the Honea vineyard—sandy soils in the Los Olivos district. Wild yeast fermented & aged in stainless & old oak.  Definitely has a green thing running around in the nose & taste, rounder than previous vintages with a crisp, refreshing edge.  My over all comment is, if the staff can sell a sauvignon blanc, they can certainly sell this wine. For the price—much more quality for the dollar than many Italian versions.

Tocai Friulano “Honea Vineyard” 2012–From the Honea vineyard—sandy soils in the Los Olivos district. Wild yeast fermented & aged in stainless & old oak. Again, my over all comment is, if the staff can sell a sauvignon blanc, they can certainly sell this wine. For the price—much more quality for the dollar than many Italian versions (where it is now named Friulano). 90% of this wine is whole cluster pressed into stainless, & wild yeast fermented. The other 10% sees a 30 day skin contact, wild yeast fermented in OLD oak. While this grape has similar characteristics as sauvignon, it also innately has a slight nuttiness/bitterness & should be paired with more complex dishes, which have vegetables or some meat to it.

Palmina Malvasia Bianca 2012–These kinds of aromatic grape varieties I believe is a VERY important & needed segment of white wines, instrumental in better pairings with today’s contemporary foods. As I mentioned to one wine professional today, I think it is important to teach the staff how to sell these kinds of wines.  The mentholating/perfume qualities really help heighten the foods, just as herbs will. The garpes for this wine come from the Alisos Vineyard of Los Alamos & the Larner Vineyard of Ballard Canyon.   After 24 hours of reefer, the grapes are whole cluster pressed, wild yeast fermented, which finishes its fermentation in OLD oak.

CHANIN0B2

Young winemaking phenom, Gavin Chanin, is hotter than hot right now, including at least 1 “Winemaker of the Year” award. He therefore is moving up the pecking order for top quality parcels in some of Santa Barbara’s most revered vineyards & prized parcels.   What separates the Chanin Santa Barbaran grown wines from those grown in other wine growing regions, is minerality. This helps to push the wines beyond fruit & oak, as well as help buttress the wine’s acidity, keep the alcohol levels moderate & much more balanced. These wines were REALLY terrific at today’s tasting & without a doubt the best we have had from tis young winery.

Chanin Chardonnay “Los Alamos” 2012–The grapes come from the highest point in the vineyard, where the sandy soils change to more calcaric shale/limestone. The wine is whole cluster pressed, barrel fermented & aged for 16 months in French oak (15% new). This wine was so ethereal, pretty, with fabulous texture—Quite ABC Nuits Blanches like. Fabulous!

Chanin Chardonnay “Bien Nacido” 2012–I believe Gavin gets W Block, 41 year old vines. Whole cluster pressed, barrel fermented, 11 months in French oak (30% new). This wine was much more stony, more masculine than the Los Alamos with more grandeur.

Chanin Chardonnay “Sanford & Benedict” 2012–This is definitely one of the finest Chardonnay vineyards in ALL of California. Gavin gets fruit from one of the older parcels (planted in 1976)—rocky soils with diatomaceous earth.  They believe this is a Wente Chardonnay selection from Mt Eden. The wine is whole cluster pressed, sees 11 months in French oak (25% new). Definitely has breed & class!

Chanin Pinot Noir “Los Alamos” 2012–777 & 115, NO stem inclusion, 11 months in oak (20% new). This is a VERY pretty, lighter colored, REALLY ethereal, enticing, more feminine Pinot with is still SO seamless, charming, refined & classy. VERY impressive!!!

Chanin Pinot Noir “Rinconada” 2012–This vineyard is located next to Sanford & Benedict, 50% Pommard & 50% Mt Eden, 40% stems, 15 months in French oak, 25% new.  Still lighter in color, BUT much more masculine & grander in style.

0B6TYLER

Justin Willett is is a NEW AGE superstar & his wines are on the very top winelists in New York, San Francisco & the other major markets. OUTSTANDING!!!!!  He is just now hitting his stride & many insiders are saying his 2012’s are his finest wines to date!! His is a passion for purity, finesse, texture & balance (naturally)…almost effortlessly so.

Tyler Chardonnay “Zotovich” 2012–Dijon clone 76, grown in the wind pounded, sand, extreme Zotovich vineyard. This wine is SOOO pure, seamless & sophisticated.   Many say, this is his finest Chardonnay to date…..which is saying alot.

Tyler Pinot Noir “La Encantada” 2012–667 & Pommard, panted in 1999 & organically farmed. 20% new oak. This is his most savory Pinot….only 4 barrels produced.  WOW!

CRU BEAUJOLAIS  0B8

It has been a while since we tasted Beaujolais Here are three 2013’s. In a former professional life, we fell in love with a group of 9 from the region. This would have been back in the late 80’s/early 90’s. The wines were so darn good, tasty & soooo irresistible.  Here are 3 of the 9.  Isn’t it amazing, that after the 20 plus which have passed, & ALL of the wines I have since tasted, that that list of 9 has not changed!!! It just doesn’t get better for me.  When you taste these, you will understand.

Chignard Fleurie “Les Moriers” 2013–The Les Moriers parcel is like a finger jutting out & therefore surrounded by Moulin-a-Vent. His is 8 hectares of 60 year old vines.  Sees 13 months in OLD foudres. “light, playful yet deep, ripe fruit”, with a lovely charming personality. Superb!

Nicole Chanrion Cote de Brouilly 2013–Located mid-slope on the Mt Brouilly—black/blue granite, which is very different from the pink granite below.. 6 hectares of 50year old vines.  Whole cluster/carbonic. Intriguing, frisky with a slight, surprising masculine edge.

Chateau Thivin Cote de Brouilly 2013–The oldest estate on the MT Brouilly. The grade is steep (48%), black/blue granite, high up.  “handsome, virile, earthy aristocrat”.

0B7DR F. WEINS-PRUM

I have a true passion for great Riesling & it has been very long running. Bert Selbach & his Dr F Weins Prum has to be top 4 for me. Having said that, though, if I were to start a German wine portfolio & could choose whoever I wanted, Bert Selbach would be #1!!!! First of all he is descendent of the iconic Prum family & therefore inherited a dream team of single vineyard parcels. Secondly, he is essentially, a 1 man show & the wines are certainly artisan & handcrafted.. Thirdly, & probably most importantly, his wines have incredible, captivating lightness, ethereal-ness, delicious-ness, refinement & sophistication, and they can therefore appeal to a wide audience of wine drinkers, from layperson to the most picky of wine expert. Here are 2 standouts for you to see for yourself.

Dr.F. Weins-Prum Riesling Kabinett “Urziger Wurtzgarten” 2011–½ a hectare in one of the steepest vineyards of the Mosel with a reddish to the slate…..which clearly shows in the perfume. What an amazing wine this is!!!!! Harvested at 89.7 oechsle, 7 total acidity, 51 g/lresidual sugar. For me, the wine of the day!!!

Dr.F. Weins-Prum Riesling Spatlese “Wehlener Sonnenuhr”  2012–One hectare in this “Grand Cru” (my words). Harvested at 100 oechsle, 7 .8 total acidity, 90g/l residual sugar.  OMG!!!!!

 

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3 epic, rustic red wines from the 2007 vintage (7 yars old)—2 from Italy & 1 from Spain.  Each should really ring your bell.  It is VERY important for us at VINO to continually feature top caliber wines from the Mediterranean basin.  Yes, it is our passion….BUT….it makes sense with the kind of foods Chef Keith creates.  How does the lay person sift through all of the labels & marketing jargon to better determine what to buy?  Here are 3.  Yes, just another opportunity to learn!

01c2007 Ciacci Picolomini Brunello di Montalcino  “Pianrosso”

There are many top caliber Brunello di Montalcino.  Ciacci Picolomini, however, standout because of their desire to make the wines in the vineyard & then showcase its purity in the finished wine. Although many producers may say that in their spiel, Ciacci Picolomini truly delivers it in the wine. Pianrosso is their top site—stony slopes near the Orcia river in the south-southwest corner of Montalcino. This majestic, 100% Brunello is fermented in stainless & concrete & aged for 36 months in 20 to 62 hectoliter Slavonian oak.

2007 Ca’ Bianca Barolo  01b

This is a very masculine, provocative style of Barolo from Alice Bel Colle in the Alto Monferrato area of Piemonte. Theirs is a contiguous 96 acres of hillside, east to southeast facing at 950 feet elevation.  This wine was aged for 24 months in large Slavonian casks & old French oak barrels.

01a2007 Clos Pissarra  “La Vinyeta”

Clos Pissarra is a new standout wine project from Priorat, Spain, under the direction of Mater Sommelier Emanuel Komeiji.  They excel at small batches of superstar wines, grown in the VERY steep, non-terraced hillsides of slate with virtually no top soil.  La Vinyeta is their top bottling, 2.5 acres of 125 year old Carignane & Grenache.  The yield in 2007 was a miniscule 1 ton, for the 2 ½ acres!!!!!!—1/4 ton per acre……50 cases worth..

Categories : Red, Wine, Wines Revisted
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http://www.winophilia.com/2014/07/25/favorite-summer-whites/#more-6608

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