Archive for Food and Wine
More “small” plates & wine thoughts at Hiroshi Eurasion Tapas……..
Crab Salad with grapefruit, cucumbers & pickled wasabi
WINE: 2013 Birichino Malvasia Bianca–this winery made quite a big leap in quality with the transition from 2012 to 2013. They were able to source some malvasia grown in limestone soiled vineyards, which apparently added minerality & ethereal-ness to the blend. Furthermore, this wine’s innate aromatics just heightens the dish’s nuances in quite a magical way.
We looked to taste advantage of Easter Sunday at Hiroshi Eurasion Tapas, to do another night of “small” plates served on a cart. Not only are the small plates tasty & craete an opportunity to try a bunch of different tastes, it is also a golden opportunity to try out different wine pairings too. Here are some to think about–
It wasn’t that long ago when Hawaii’s best restaurants featured foods from Europe, especially France. That was significantly changed when a group of 12 chefs, founded HRC (Hawaii Regional Cuisine).
From that day the concept of “fine” dining & high level foods changed. For HRC chefs like Roy Yamaguchi & Alan Wong (& later on “new generation” chefs such as my partner DK Kodama) their foods often feature a real dynamic Asian flair.
In terms of wine, this created an incredible, new learning opportunity of pairing wines to foods.
We continue with the fun filled journey of pairing foods & wines.
“In House” Smoked Shinsato Pork with Hau’ula tomatoes, sliced Maui onions & lemon-fish sauce (Keith Endo, VINO)
2012 Eric Chevalier Pinot Noir Rose–this is marvelous, light, airy Pink wine from the Muscadet region of France’s Loire Valley. It wasn’t that long ago, when we were lucky to get 2 or 3 vintages out of every ten which would ripen the grapes. Imagine!!!!…today now Pinot Noir!!!! This rose gives the dish a real uplifting, palate cleansing fruitiness between bites.
One of the most interesting aspects of the restaurant industry is pairing wine to food. The very complex matrix of understanding how they interact is really totally fascinating & compelling to say the least. I am so lucky to work with a group of chefs who are continuously churning out new foods. Here are some of the most recent–
“NEW AGE” KAISEKI MENU
JANUARY 28, 2014
Mekajiki Carpaccio–sesame oil-chive relish, chili pepper water vinaigrette, micro greens and truffle oil
Braised Island Tako–seaweed salad, yuzukoshu, shiso and yuzu vinaigrette
Marinated Island Papaya & Seared Foie Gras–green papaya, sweet Thai chili and Thai basil chiffonade
“Surf and Turf”
oxtail chawan mushi spoon & Kauai shrimp with Chinese five spice dust
On the Left, we have Sous Vide of Kuahiwi Beef “Poke”….& on the Right, Kampachi Roll-a-Tini, both from Hiroshi Eurasion Tapas (Chef John Iha & Doug Fujii respectively). The wine we chose is the Oroya, a dry, amazingly light & crisp white wine from Spain. This highly innovative wine is produced from 3 indigenous Spanish grape varieties & crafted by Japanese national Yoko Sato specifically with contemporary Japanese foods in mind. The wine’s innate minerality & citrus like edge just heigthened the foods, like a fresh squeeze of lemon would. We also loved how this wine was delicious, light bodied & gulpable by itself. Sadly, this wine is NOT produced any more.
Alexander was the founding chef/co-owner of the highly lauded Seven Hills restaurant on Hyde Street in the Knob Hill/Russian Hill cusp. 2 weeks ago, he left the restaurant & is now looking to open his own place. His food is contemporary Italian with real classic roots. Here is the menu & wine pairings of the night.
Crispy Polenta with seared Bay scallops & a chanterelles mushroom reduction