Archive for June, 2017

We continue the tasting with a gang of white wines.  White on, bro!

2016 Palmina Pinot Grigio “Santa Barbara”–Palmina is a project featuring Italian grape varieties grown & produced in the Santa Barbara appellation of California by winemaker Steve Clifton.  (Quite candidly, I am not quite sure who else is still involved with Steve).  The 2016 is markedly different from the previous Pinot Grigio bottlings.  It definitely has a more coppery hue to the naked eye, which reminds me of a more ramato (skin contact) style.  The wine is still tasty, refined, seamless–just with a little more flesh & a bitter almond to the finish.  I would also suggest that it is still greatly & thankfully still way underpriced.  Thank you to Warren for sharing this bottle.   2016 Chehalem Pinot Gris “12th Ave Grill”–Here is a wine “designed” for head wine star, Rick Lily, over at 12th Ave Grill.  As one taster noted–“I love it, because it is so pretty & delicious“.   Can’t argue with that kind of endorsement.  Kudos to you Mr. Lily!   2014 Au Bon Climat Pinot Gris/Pinot Blanc “Santa Maria Valley”–This certainly was one of the standout white wines–very classy, elegant, seamless texture AND plenty of mojo in the core.  I also love the superb balance AND mostly what a SENSATIONAL VALUE this truly is considering the price. 

2015 Lieu Dit Sauvignon Blanc “Santa Ynez Valley”–I have been a huge fan of this bottling for a few vintages, as it showcased the very best attributes of what Sauvignon Blanc can be in California–elegance, refinement, class with sublime, earth driven nuances.  Quite candidly, however, I was a little disappointed with this particular wine.  Although it still showed much of the characteristics I had previously admired, it was rather lackluster, disjointed & kind of a “plain Jane” on this night.   I think it was mainly due to following the previously tasted Au Bon Climat wine.  It still was quite good & undoubtedly dwarfed the New Zealander that followed–2015 Petit Clos Sauvignon Blanc “Marlborough” (from Clos Henri) with much rounder edges, seamlessness & a much better finish.

2015 Cambiata Albariño “Monterey”–Such subtle & enticing perfume with seamlessness & wonderful flow on the palate.  We have really been working hard to find such fragrant, aromatic grape varieties, as they provide a very different compatibility when pairing with foods.  This one is from our wine friend Eric Laumann, using vines grown especially for him down in Monterey.  In addition, this wine really does over deliver for the dollar.  The sad news is, there was apparently only 205 cases produced.  I am not so sure what to say about the 2013 Matthiasson White Wine “Napa Valley”.  Winemaker Steve Matthiasson has developed a huge following, especially among the sommelier scene.  We therefore had big expectations for this wine, because the core is Ribolla Gialla, an Italian/Slovenian grape variety (vine cuttings from Josko Gravner) which Steve is especially high on.  It was unexpectedly & unfortunately quite underwhelming on this night (forward, hollow in the middle, no core to it, & oaky/alcoholic & bitter in the finish).  Maybe it was due to shipping or storage, which was undetermined, because no one said they brought it.   It was still a treat to try.  

2013 Melville Viognier “Verna’s Vineyard”–the first commercial Californian grown Viognier I tasted was a 1986 from Bill Smith of La Jota up on Howell Mountain.  The next, shortly thereafter was one from Calera.  Because of its wonderful perfume & aromatics, it seemed to really catch on & lots of people were planting it.  It was en vogue.  The challenge for me, however was finding “good” ones.  I remember trying one in the early 90’s which was organically grown in the Russian River appellation.  It was exotically perfumed, as expected, thick viscous, luscious, BUT flabby, quite hollow, noticeably alcoholic & bitter.  The following year the same winemaker contacted me again, with much eagerness over his new rendition.  The grapes came from the same vineyard, but he noted harvested at way lower brix to retain the acidity & freshness.  In both cases, I just felt, this quite fickle  grape variety really didn’t do too well in his spot.  I have found that this exotically scented grape variety seems to do especially well in the marine soils & cool growing confines of Santa Barbara county.  Here was a stellar example–enticing, uplifting perfume, the weight of a Chardonnay grown in the same vineyard, an interplay of exotic & minerality, seamlessness & lovely, captivating deliciousness.   Thank you Micah for sharing. 

2014 Folk Machine Chenin Blanc–Chenin Blanc did not have such a good reputation over the years in California.  There were far too many that would lacksidasically grown & made.  Along came former skateboarder Kenny Likitprakong who found some very interesting Chenin Blanc sources, the first from down south in the Santa Barbara appellation & more recently from the old vine Norgard Vineyard on the Talmage Bench in Mendocino in 2010.   I believe these vines are more like 36 years in age.  While this wine does not have too much resemblance to the Chenin Blancs of France’s Loire Valley (& so it should be, by the way.  This is California after all!), this particular bottling is a fairly good drink & certainly much better suited for the dinner table than most Californian Sauvignon Blanc bottlings I have tasted.  The 2015 Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc/Viognier–was kindly brought to share by one of Hawaii’s top sommeliers.  He routinely buys this at the wine store for under $13 a bottle & feels he really gets his bang for his buck.  Thank you for sharing!

Categories : White, Wine, Wine Thoughts
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We gathered the gang again to do yet another BYOB BLIND tasting.  The theme was to explore “other” grape varieties in the New World……yes, still in search of what is “good” wine.  We ask, how much would you pay for this wine?  And, what kinds of foods would you pair it with?  Yes, questions pertinent to working the floor…….just another way of learning!

2013 Palmina Dolcetto “Santa Barbara”–we started the tasting with an Italian grape variety grown & produced in the Santa Barbara appellation of California.  I had previously tasted & enjoyed many Italian grown Dolcetto red wines over the years, BUT not too many ever REALLY rang my bell.   What drew me to this bottling, however, is how delicious, juicy & well made this wine is & still with the earthy, savory, masculine, dark fruited qualities one normally would find in Italian versions.  I also feel the price makes since this wine even more compelling, especially when one compares the quality/dollar ratio of other red grape varieties such as Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Barbera & the sort.  the challenge then for the sommelier is how to sell it on the floor.

 

2011 Scherrer Zinfandel “Shale Terrace”

1998 Scherrer Zinfandel “Old & Mature Vines”

Both of these Zinfandels come from Fred Scherrer’s father’s vineyard in Alexander Valley, located on a bench above the Silver Oak planting.  The Zinfandel was first planted in 1912 & was subsequently supplemented in waves over the years.  As I have mentioned before, the Scherrer Zinfandel “Old & Mature Vines” are some of our all time favorite bottlings of this grape variety.  They standout because of how surprisingly elegant, suave, & well textured & balanced they are……quite the contrast to hearty, robust, higher alcohol versions from other wineries.  The 1998, brought & shared by Erica & Jamm was stunning.  The edges were even rounder & the wine much more integrated.  In addition the old vine nuances really sang out with the fruit & spice qualities now much more in the background.   Who says Zinfandel doesn’t get better with bottle age?  In comparison, we tasted the 2011 “Shale Terrace” which from a particular parcel of this vineyard which as the name suggests, much more rocky in make up.  It really does want to say something different, with higher toned, almost nectarine/peach fruit aromas & seemingly much lighter on its feet.  In both cases, I felt the wines were excellent!

2013 Ancient Peaks Petite Verdot “Santa Margarita Vineyard”–The Santa Margarita Vineyard is located at 1,000 feet in elevation down in southern Paso Robles.  I had tasted a Petite Verdot (blended with Merlot) bottling from this vineyard produced by another winery a few years back & was so impressed I started working on actually visiting the ranch.  After much effort, we were finally able to get in & 4 wheeled our way through all of the nooks & crannies of this remote, 900 plus acre “mountain”  site.  There are actually at least 5 distinct soil types here, & the most compelling were the fossilized oyster bed & the more common shale parcels.  When I was later asked to help find wines for the First Class service of Hawaiian Airlines, I instantaneously knew this was the vineyard I wanted to work with AND I had a notion there would be a good portion of Petite Verdot used in the blending. Yes siree!   As it turned out, however, on the first go around, I realized that this vineyard’s Petite Verdot was much better as a blending component rather than being a stand alone.  This 2013 reconfirmed that.  While I think the wine was good, it actually got unintentionally dwarfed by the 2012 Cambiata Tannat “Monterey” it was paired with.  This was truly a black beast–black as old fashion shoe polish, mega-intense, dense, seemingly just packed as packed could be, hearty, robust, masculine though surprisingly well textured & well balanced.  How does one corral such a wild, full on monster like this?  How does one manage the searing tannins & acidity?   Other winemakers, first of all, would probably not even take on such a project.  And, if they did, many today, I would guess, certainly would explore what micro-oxygenation could do.  Winemaker/owner Eric Laumann instead chose the virtue of patience.  The first vintage of this wine, 2004,  I had tasted was aged for I believe an astounding 40 plus months in oak barrels.  The 2012 was a mere 28 months.  In both cases, the time in oak helped to round out hard edges & helped frame an otherwise uncontrollable beast.  I am not necessarily looking for such esoteric wines, BUT when it is this good, especially when one considers the price tag, how can you not go all in?

2013 Linne Calodo “Nemesis”–we have been huge fans of the wines from Linne Calodo for quite some time.  We shared this bottle of 2013 Nemesis (82% Syrah, 14% Mourvèdre, 4% Grenache) to show tasters an example of well grown & crafted Syrah based red from the westside of the Paso Robles appellation.  Despite this being a lavish, opulent, luscious, higher alcohol wine with lots of bravado & mojo, the wine’s innate minerality from the limestone/siliceous clay soils it was grown in, made it so provocative & surprisingly more buoyant.  It certainly had the wow factor & was quite impressive.  Because of its density, showiness & mouthfilling richness, we feel this wine could be a segue for many Cabernet fans into a whole new world of wines to experience, once again helping to fill that puka between Californian Pinot & Cabernet (closer to the Cabernet end of the spectrum).  The 2015 Stolpman Syrah “Estate” on the other hand, shared by Rick, was a much more elegant, suave, more transparent style of Syrah & therefore lied closer to the Pinot end of the spectrum.  What a fabulous comparison!

2013 Gramercy Cabernet Sauvignon “Columbia Valley”–there is little doubt it is becoming Washington state’s “time in the spotlight” more & more.  The wines have gotten much better, partly because the vine material & plantings have gotten much more interesting AND there is quite a growing number of winemakers (& grape growers) changing the game.  One of those leading the charge is Greg Harrington of Gramercy Cellars.  A Master Sommelier & former wine director for both the Wolfgang Puck & Emeril Lagasse restaurant groups Greg intuitively grows & makes wines in pursuit of balance.  While his Syrah & Mourvedre based red wines are at the head of the class, we wanted to showcase one of his Cabernets just to show tasters, Washington state has arrived!  we were so fortunate that Brent & Helen brought & shared a bottle of the 1997 Laurel Glen Cabernet Sauvignon “Sonoma Mountain”.  It was a very fine example of where we came from, in terms of Cabernet Sauvignon in California.  Back in the 80’s & 90’s, this bottling was one of the very best California had to offer.  Grown in a very spiritual felt vineyard on top of Sonoma Mountain, this was one of those vineyards that offered something special & unique & this wine really showcased that.  These Laurel Glen Cabernets were always something more than fruit, ripe fruit & oak.  They had mojo, spirit & heart.  This one was spectacular on this evening AND soooo remarkably youthful still.  I wish more people would make & appreciate wines like this today!  AND, if my memory serves me correctly, the 1997 was the first Cabernet, winemaker/owner Patrick Campbell produced up to this point that was over 14 degrees alcohol.

2015 Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir “Santa Barbara”–Au Bon Climat is one of the true leaders (AND for quite a long time) out of California for producing more elegant, highly refined, very transparent & worldly Pinot Noirs.  This is an example of his work, although there was a surprising rustic edge to the wine showing (perhaps from some Mondeuse he typically blends into this bottling).   Still there is a fine-ness on the palate with wonderful texture & balance.   I believe he has never really gotten enough credit for all he & his wines have done for the Californian wine industry.  Thank you John for sharing.  I was glad Ann kindly shared a bottle of the 2015 Maison L’Envoye Pinot Noir “Tasmania” on this day.  When I was growing up in this industry I would frequently hear about the terrific potential the Island of Tasmania had for growing & producing sparkling, Riesling AND Pinot Noir wines.  This bottling is by far the best example I have to date, 30 years later.  I would not even think this was Cru quality by any means, BUT it is elegant, fine, classy, well textured & balanced…all at quite a remarkable price.

2012 Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir “Bien Nacido Vineyard”–I just loved this wine for its intoxicating perfume–musk, earth & funk AND its wonderful transparency, refinement, remarkable texture & balance.  It was the wine of the day for me, which is saying a lot.  PLUS, when one considers the quality for dollar ratio, it’s an absolute NO-brainer,” on the list” wine for me.  Done deal!  I also greatly appreciate Rick bringing to share his wine, the 2015 Tyler Pinot Noir “12th Ave Grill” with all of us.  Tyler winemaker/owner Justin Willett masterfully crafts Pinot Noirs like this (& a bevy of Chardonnays) all about precision, refinement, transparency, texture, balance & class, as this wine clearly showcased.  Kudos to Rick & Justin!!!!! I just wished I had poured it before the Au Bon Climat.

Categories : Red, Wine, Wine Thoughts
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Jun
08

Tasting Syrah –final thoughts 05-13-17

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As I had mentioned, when Jason Drew, one of our favorite California winemakers, first emailed me about the inklings of a Syrah tasting & get together I was quite hyped.  I really enjoy well grown & well made Syrah.

Prior to the actual event, I had very little information as to what would happen or who would be attending, but figured if Jason invited me, it would be my kind of tasting AND a wonderful opportunity/forum for discussion & learning.

Therefore, after giving considerable thought as to what I wanted to bring to such a tasting, I settled on 2 wines.  I was hoping these 2 wines would help shed some kind of light on what Syrah could be & therefore provide kindling to provoke thought.

I brought the 2013 Château Fontanès “La Petite Sérine” to show tasters a specific Syrah vine not commonly seen outside of the Northern Rhone Valley of France.   Over the years, I was told it was at least part of the “secret” to the wines of Chave in Hermitage, Gentaz in Côte Rôtie, Clape & Verset in Cornas, 4 of the greatest Syrah producers & wines of all time.  While there is much variation & therefore controversy about this vine selection both in California & even in France, this particular cutting, I was told by this domaine’s owner/winemaker Cyriaque Rozier, came from 3 of the top proponents of this vine in the Northern Rhone.  He planted (& subsequently organically & biodynamically farmed) them in his vineyard down in the Pic St Loup of southern France & its limestone influenced soils.  When I tasted this wine for the first time, I was really taken by its intricacies, etherealness & incredible transparency.  In short, it was NOT fruit driven!  There was a time not that long ago when I would taste en vogue, acclaimed French “country” red wines from that neck of the woods & more often than not, found them to be markedly too much about Syrah…..whose grape varietal print really dominated the resulting wine, thus obliterating other nuances.  This was certainly not the case here.  Although one could tell it was Syrah, it was NOT blatantly so & it did not over shadow the “sense of place” qualities & nuances.  Secondly, this wine offered a much more classy edge to it in comparison to its neighboring peers, again, without being too much.  Lastly, this wine is just a fraction of the cost of the Grander bottlings listed above.  

Interestingly, when one tastes through the Syrah based line-up from a producer such as Clape, one could readily sense the difference between those grown in their flatter parcels & those grown & produced from the Cornas hillside.  California, in my opinion, has not yet worked through all of that yet.  So, my thought was to taste a Syrah, produced from a top quality vine, which is organically & biodynamically farmed, in a “less than Grand” terroir.  I was hoping this would bring a different slant on what Syrah could be & thereby provoke very different thoughts & questions of possibilities from a different angle.

The second wine I brought, a 2009 Côte Rôtie “Les Roses”, is from a joint project of iconic Rhone Valley winemaker Louis Barruol & superstar importer/Rhone master, Kermit Lynch.  The previous year, I had received a note from the Kermit Lynch team which stated–“Louis had barrels from seven vineyard parcels on the roasted slope. I finished by blending  four  of  them  together,  40% of it from the vineyard Champin. The result has me sailing high, thinking back to the glory days when Marius Gentaz, René Rostaing, and Robert Jasmin were producing classics; classics that hopefully made me very demanding when it comes to Côte Rôtie“.  The 2009 “Les Roses” is a blend of the lieux-dits Fongeant and Rozier from the Côte Rôtie , again featuring the Petite Serine vine.  Here, in my mind was yet another example of how the Petite Serine vine could manifest itself.  I didn’t know exactly what wines would be shown at this tasting since it was BLIND, but wanted to make sure tasters had a chance to taste this old heritage vine, grown in a “Grand” site (s) nonetheless.

In essence, I would suggest one focus should be on finding better vine material, other than or in addition to ENTAV & Tablas Creek clones.

I was clearly reminded on a visit to the Cornas hillside with Olivier Clape one year, when asked about vine selection, he confided they had replanted one of their Cornas parcels with a new, hot fandango clone, which everyone gaga-ed over.   Judging by his facial expression & body language as the conversation continued, however, I don’t think the family was too thrilled over the results from that planting.  I also would surmise, this parcel does not make it into their “pride & joy” Cornas bottling.  Plus, they also knew & understood it would cost too much to redo.  If I were in their shoes, I would therefore not put all my eggs in one basket, unless it was a massale selection that is happy & has proven itself for a long, long time in the area.  Or perhaps finding an offspring of a massale selection, which shows great promise & planting it in a small area at first to see how it does.

The second important focus would be finding better sites to work with.

As a reminder, there are vineyards in France, which are designated as Cotes du Rhone & there are those designated as Cornas, eventhough they are not that far apart as the crow flies.  It just took time, often multiple generations, sometimes centuries to fully uncover & validate those differences.  I get it.

Still, in the meantime, one can make a pretty “good” Syrah, from a lesser than Grand site like what the Château Fontanès, is, using a very highly regarded, proven vine selection, as the first stepping stone.

I was hoping tasting these 2 wines would encourage more discussions & questions on those two fronts.

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Jun
08

Tasting Syrah 05-13-17

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Two or so years ago, a small group of top echelon Californian Syrah producers visited France’s Rhone Valley, which included a talk story session with some the valley’s top, artisan producers.  Yes, California meets France, looking to discuss how to grow & craft top caliber Syrah.  I would have loved to be a fly on the wall observing & listening to all of that! 

Fast forward to May 11, 2017, the core of the Californian group met again in San Francisco to continue the conversation & moving the sharing of thoughts & information forward.  The centerpiece of the night was a BLIND tasting of 12 Syrah red wines–6 from California & 6 from France’s northern Rhone Valley.  The event was held at the Hillside Supper Club in San Francisco.

The list of attendees included–

winemakers–Adam Tolmach (Ojai); Bob Lindquist (Qupe); Pax Mahle (Wind Gap); Paul Gordon (Halcon); Bradley Brown (Big Basin); Michael (assistant winemaker of Drew, since Jason was in Europe at the time).

media–included–William Kelley (Decanter); Esther (Chronicle); Jim Gordon (Enthusiast); Mike Dunne (Sac Bee); Patrick Comiskey (author of “American Rhone: How Maverick Winemakers Changed the Way Americans Drink“); Cyrus Limon & Alan Rath (WineBerserkers).

and me. 

I didn’t even know what wines were actually there!  Some French names had been mentioned in passing prior to the event & I would expect there would be wines from the Californian winemakers present, but all speculation, at least for me.   I believe Paul Gordon (in the middle of the picture) was the true mastermind in putting this event together.  (Thank you Paul!)  Orchestrating & pouring of wines blind was the host restaurant’s “wine guy”, Austin Ferrari, apparently quite the rising star in the city.  (standing up & serving in the picture).  Thank you Austin!


The 12 wines were served in 2 flights of 6…….BLIND.  The tasters were then asked to rate the wines, 1 thru 12.

 

Here was the group’s compilation of the top 5–

#1 2013 Wind Gap “Nellison”

#2 2013 Halcon “Alturas”

#3 2012 Jamet Cote Rotie

#4 2013 Gonon St Joseph

#5 2013 Drew “Perli”

Here was my list (complete with the tasting notes I had taken)—

#1 2012 Clusel Roch Cote Rotie “Vialliere”–captivating, feral nose–really good pedigree with sandalwood, smoke,roasted green peppercorn, gamey, pepper, bay leaf, savory, musky, classy.  vinous, higher in acidity, less glycerine, lower alcohol.  When asked, I thought this was French.

Tied for #1 2013 Ojai “Solomon Hills”–earthy, savory & classy, though quite masculine in style, dense, immense & quite formidably structured.  raspberry, smoke, earth, pepper, green peppercorn.  moderate plus in alcohol & glycerine. 

#3 2012 Jamet Cote Rotieclosed nose, but more ethereal, feral/rustic, rank andouille sausage, smoke  musk & earth.  Also had pedigree & lots of class.  leaner, more acidity, lighter in color, lower alcohol & glycerin.  When asked, I thought this was French–perhaps Cornas.  

#4 2012 Allemand Cornas “Challiot”–andouille sausage/feral smells–wildly rustic, bay leaf, smoke, lavender, savory, musk, sandalwood, masculine, leaner, higher acidity, lower alcohol & glycerine.  Definitely had a soulfulness.  When asked, I thought this was Cornas.

#5 2013 Wind Gap “Nellison”–ripe red fruit, bordering jammy, smokey, earthy, savory, ripe, forward, power, well structured,  well balanced……stewed raspberry nuances.  Well made Californian, so I thought this might be Ojai Syrah.

Other notes–

While I was tasting the wines, I did not think about whether the wine was from France or California.  My focus was instead on whether it was good or not, why or why not.  I noted my thoughts on place of origin, only because my neighbors had asked.

One of the real missing bits of information I would have liked was how much did each wine cost.  As a wine buyer, one, I believe, also needs to consider quality for the dollar when purchasing.  I believe the Ojai & perhaps the Wind Gap bottlings, for example, was the least expensive of my top 5 list & that certainly would have been a strong consideration for me when looking which of these wines to buy for the restaurant.

Another clarification I need to comment on, is top 5 for consumption when?  I really believed the French trio of my top 5 list–Clusel Roch, Jamet & the Allemand because of the higher acidity levels & mojo would greatly benefit from some additional bottle age & would therefore have really affected my subsequent scoring of each.  While the Ojai & Wind Gap would have also benefitted from additional bottle age, I’m not so  sure if it would have been as much.  All conjecture however.

Also, as promised, I started reading Patrick Comiskey’s newly released book–“American Rhone: How Maverick Winemakers Changed the Way Americans Drink” on the plane back to Hawaii.  Although I have read only just a bit, I like it & had a hard time putting it down.  It certainly (at least so far) does a good job of documenting the Rhone varietal based wines history in a very clear, understandable style–from Kermit Lynch to Joseph Phelps to Gary Eberle to Jim Clendenen, Adam Tolmach & Bob Lindquist to Randall Grahm to what I am currently reading–Steve Edmunds.  Since this all unfolded in the early part of my wine career, it really was so fascinating for me the way Patrick connected the dots & made transitions from one to another, as he moved forward.  Thank you Patrick for your work!

(As a side note, I would absolutely love it if Kermit Lynch would some day do the same kind of writing documenting his journey with the producers from France’s northern Rhone Valley such as Chave, August Clape, Marius Gentaz, Noel Verset, Thierry Allemand, Gonon, Faury AND with Monier, Joseph Panel, Trollat, Rostaing & Robert Jasmin!  Wouldn’t that be something to read!)

I must also thank Paul Gordon of Halcon for putting together this tasting.  It took, I am sure, a lot work, time & energy.  Thank you also to Jason Drew of Drew wines for getting me invited.  I, for one, got a lot out of this experience.

I truly believe there is a huge opportunity for these kinds of wines on our winelists.  Well grown & crafted renditions, for one, can help fill a puka which lies between Pinot & Cabernet.  Yes, we can create a step ladder which will better bridge that gap on the restaurant floors.

Furthermore, Syrah is undisputedly a noble grape variety.  I clearly remembered how floored I was tasting my first Chave Hermitage & later Gentaz Dervieux Cote Rotie & Noel Verset Cornas back in the late 80’s.  Each completely astounded me in terms of pedigree, transparency & soulfulness.  They really helped open a whole new horizon of wines & possibilities for me.  Imagine 28 years later at this tasting, a Californian born Syrah was a favorite on the compiled tasters’ list, as well as on mine.  My, my, we have come a long ways.

Lastly, it was great to see some long time friends–Bob Lindquist (on the left),  Adam Tolmach (on the right) & Pax Mahle.  And, it was also great to meet a bunch of new wine friends.  Thank you to all!!!

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