Archive for October, 2014
Again, one of our goals for 2014 is feature more & more good wines……those which others can be compared to. This will help, tasters create a solid base to work from as their tasting adventures continue. It is not as easy as one would think. Here are 4 standouts from the Mediterranean basin. These are some of the most interesting & provocative rustic reds we have run across. I think soulful is a really good word to use here. If you want to better understand what we mean when we say soulful, then you should come & try these wines. Yes, just another really good opportunity to learn! Wines like this just don’t happen along!
Corsica’s star is rising on the American wine scene. Sommeliers & wine professionals across the country are jumping onto the Corsican bandwagon on the fast track. The rugged & very remote countryside produces some equally rugged, masculine red wines, of which the very finest are crafted from indigenous grape varieties. Certainly leading the charge is Abbatucci. Genius!!!! AND, a true champion of tradition & authenticity—in their wines & especially their environment.. Here is their Ajaccio (southwestern Corsica) which is produced from the Sciaccarellu & Niellucciu grape varieties, which are biodynamically farmed. A must to try!!!!
2007 D’Aupilhac “Le Carignan”
The family has been working this special tract in Montpeyroux down in southern France since the 1800’s, although the vineyard itself dates back to Roman times. (The Romans were true experts on where to plant their vines!) The neighbors across the way include Daumas Gassac & Grange des Peres (talk about an unreal neighborhood!!!). The ancient Carignane vines were planted on severe terraced hillsides with all kinds of crazy, extreme soils, which, at least partially, explains the completely wild & rustic character of this standout French “country” red. You never had something like this before!
2008 Guido Porro Barolo “Santa Caterina”
Here is our chance to show tasters a Barolo as it was made BEFORE roto fermenters & all of the other modern technology which is used to make modern/contemporary renditions. Yes, this is a winery who is dedicated to traditional methods both in the vineyards & in the cellar. The Caterina monopole vineyard is located at roughly 1200 feet elevation in the limestone heavy soils of Serralunga d’Alba. The region is most noted for producing long lived, full bodied Barolo. I therefore smile that the Porro version is much more elegant & refined, yet masculine, traditional & truly authentic in its core!!!!
2008 Tempier Bandol “La Tourtine”
Tempier has to be the most storybook wine of all. Their wines & estate is iconic, steeped in tradition, history & regional culture. It is hard for me to separate the wine from the family & its history. There is really nothing else like Domaine Tempier. The La Tourtine bottling usually is dominately Mourvedre, with some Grenache & Cinsault for finer details. I find the resulting wine has wonderful structure, more refinement & needs bottle age to really strut its stuff. Here is your chance to taste one of their treasures yourself & experience the magic of Domaine Tempier & its wines.
Slacker Stereotype 2012
Slacker The Professional 2012
A “side” project of Matt Trevisan of Linne Calodo featuring blends he crafts from grapes from the Slacker & Oakdale ranches. Still, masterfully blended….BUT at a different price point.
Gramercy Cellars Syrah Columbia Valley 2012
Gramercy Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Lower East 2012
Stellar, highly acclaimed Washington State wines from Master Sommelier Greg Harrington. Warren was right…it is time to really Look at the New Age generation forming there, just as we have seen in the past from Paso Robles, Santa Barbara & Anderson Valley.
Anthill Farms Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2012
Drew Pinot Noir Fog Eater 2012
TWO superb Pinots….from New Age winemakers, in pursuit of true balance & deliciousness.
Maison L’Envoye Attache Pinot Noir 2012
Mark Tarlov teams up with Mike Etzel Jr & consultant Louis Michel Liger Belair from Burgundy for this lovely Oregonian Pinot
Drew Pinot Gris Filligreen 2013
Melville Estate Viognier Verna’s 2012
Linne Calodo Contrarian 2013
We continually look for top caliber AROMATIC white wines, as we think there really is a HUGE opportunity to pair with contemporary fusion foods. Here are 3 superb examples.
Rivers-Marie Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2012
Melville Estate Chardonnay 2013
Tyler Chardonnay Dierburg 2012
These 3 producers exemplify a New Age of what California Chardonnay can be.
Quenard Chignin Blanc 2013–A dry, amazingly light & crisp white from savoie, France & the foothills of the French Alps.
Domaine Maestracci E Prove Blanc 2012–Yet, another example of why I am so revved up about Corsica & its wines.
Reverdy Sancerre Cuvee Ortus 2009
Champalou Vouvray Clos Portail 2011
SPECIAL bottlings (produced in only certain vintages) from TWO of my all time favorite Loire Valley wines
When I was growing up in this industry, I was taught there was only 5 nobble grape varieties—Chardonnay & Riesling for whites AND Syrah, Cabernet/Merlot & Pinot Noir for reds. That was the inspiration for this tasting. 3 “noble” reds….each epitomizing “classical” & each being a standout for their appellation. Yes, these are benchmarks for others to be measured by….another set of stellar example of what “good” wines can be. Just another really good opportunity to learn!
“Along the steep, narrow valley that traces the northern Rhône, the appellation of Saint-Joseph takes its place among the great wines of France, and Domaine Faury is one of the region’s most artisanal producers. The steep slopes of the northern Rhône present a challenging terrain where farming is only feasible through terracing. On these terraced slopes, the Faurys’ vines take full advantage of the southern and southeastern sun exposure, benefitting from optimum ripening. A combination of the predominately granitic soil, partial de-stemming (in about 70% of the grapes), soft crushing of the grapes with a pneumatic press, and temperature controlled fermentation offer a liveliness and freshness that one does not often find in wines from the northern Rhône. There’s a real attention to detail here, and nothing is done in haste. Every method used encourages the grape towards greatness with the ultimate respect for its fragility. Pigeage, the punching of the cap, is not carried out with tools, but gently by foot – not just poetic but also pragmatic. Unlike many other vignerons in the region, the Faurys have a strong aversion to new oak. Though the reds definitely see time in barrels, there is a rotation between new and old alike, along with a variety of sizes, ranging from the smaller barriques to the larger 600-liter demi-muids. Unfined and only lightly filtered before bottling, these wines are loaded with classic flavors and show a remarkable rustic elegance”. Classic, wonderfully captivating northern Rhone Valley Syrah–explosive, expressive Syrah perfume (of hillside grown….NOT just tooty fruity, varietally correct)….masculine, sultry, musky, floral, peppery, gamey….done without a heavy hand. Gorgeous is a good word here.
2000 Chateau Gombaude Guillot “Pomerol”
In the heart of the Pomerol plateau, on the Right Bank of Bordeaux, are the vineyards of Château Gombaude-Guillot Though the estate is already certified organic, they are now pursuing the more stringent requirements of biodynamics. As a recently discovered jewel in the crown of Bordeaux, Pomerol does not have an official classification system, yet the standards set for the vignerons here are high. The château’s vineyards are comprised of glacial gravel deposits and clay, and vineyard work is focused around soil health, low yields, and maximizing ripeness. Cover crops are planted between vineyard rows to encourage microbiological activity in the soil. No chemical or synthetic herbicides or fungicides are used, and Claire, the current proprietor, is also careful not to eliminate vineyard pests entirely, citing their importance to the vineyard’s ecosystem. The vines average forty years of age and give naturally low yields. The wines of Gombaude-Guillot are classic reflections of Pomerol: rich and supple, with a deep gravel mineral structure. This vin de garde has all of the grace and finesse for which the appellation is known, without any of the highbrow pretention or price. The legendary 2000 is 85% Merlot & 15% Cabernet Franc aged in Allier oak (50% new). This 2000, eventhough from a highly lauded, ripe vintage, is done more in a style I grew up with. NO fruit bombs here! Yes, this wine is certainly more about the soil than about grape variety, winemaking or oak use. I really appreciate its finesse & more classical, sublime soil driven intricacies.
Domaine Maume’s wines are deep, profound Pinot Noir experiences. They are wines of mystery – constantly changing and evolving, both in barrel and in bottle, like the Burgundies of the past. They are bottled from barrel by gravity without any pumping, fining or filtration. The secret to Maume’s success is his rigid adherence to selection massale cuttings in his replanting of the family’s vineyards. By isolating vines with the healthiest grapes, they replant only the best. Most of their vines are quite old, too, averaging 50 years of age across all parcels. Maume does not believe in using new clones but is a strong believer in the diversity of old Pinot stock. Maume’s “En Pallud” is a particularly well-suited lieu-dit just south of the village on the slope, below the premier cru Les Corbeaux and at the same elevation and exposure as the grand crus. The Maumes have a sizeable parcel here of 65 year-old vines, produced in 2007 with NO stems & only a tiny bit of new oak. A great bottle from Maume takes you about as deep into the Burgundian soul as you can get. I was saddened to hear that this domaine recently sold to a larger company.